288 SHOZIMOV, SULAIMANOV, S.
ABDULLAEV
identities, the sedentary Tajik and Uzbeks focus on territorial
mahallas, avlods, and
jamaats/jamoats.
Thus, if Kyrgyz (and some Uzbeks) organize traditional events
around kin and tribal structures, the Tajiks and most Uzbeks integrate neighbors
into their social and cultural space through territorial
mahallas. The Tajik proverb,
“a neighbor can be closer than a relative,”
17
could also be Uzbek, but not Kyrgyz.
The basis for this can clearly be seen in the structure of the Vorukh enclave in
Kyrgyz Batken. Like towns in Tajikistan’s Isfara district, it is comprised of “Big
quarters” (Maidon, Guzar, Sari-kurum, and Tiidon); “Small quarters” (Kalacha,
Tagi-mahalla, Sari-kanda, Kuchi kozi, Kuchi bolo, Machiti-bolo, and others); as
well as “Counties.”
18
Mosques, teahouses, bazaars, and shrines serve an important function as infor-
mational space, where people exchange news and ideas on local and international
events. The traditional reliance on oral exchanges leaves public opinion subject to
rumors. This happens most frequently in isolated areas like Batken in Kyrgyzstan
and the Isfara region of Tajikistan, and also in areas underserved by electronic and
print media. Thus, the decision by village residents to build a mosque eventually
favors traditional over modern media. These decisions get implemented through
the volunteer labor (
hashar) of all able-bodied men. In many villages, including
Khodzhai Alo in Isfara district, the work is guided both by local cultural traditions
and national ones.
19
Often the link between national and religious identity is a close one. In 2003
a madrassa teacher at the nearby village of Churkukh, Salmani Forsi, specifically
criticized Sufi religious traditions—extremely popular in the Ferghana Valley—
for imposing intermediaries between believers and God. Yet he then proceeded to
support the connection of national and religious forms of identity in much the way
that the IRPT does. Clearly, his view of Islam goes beyond external ritual to include
philosophical matters. But even if he can criticize the local practice of Sufism in
much the way a Wahhabi or Salafi might do, he finds any Arabic form of the faith
unacceptable. Emphasizing the need to strengthen national forms of Islam in Tajiki-
stan, he declares: “We are Tajiks, and not Arabs, therefore we should develop our
own understanding of Islam.”
20
Forsi’s readiness to criticize a deep local tradition
yet at the same time to embrace the notion of a national religion should be traced
not to confusion on his part but to his desire to adapt to a modernizing world. It is
worth noting that Chorkukh is relatively well developed.
Contrasting with Chorkukh is the much poorer village of Surkh. At the same
time Forsi was wrestling with tradition and change, the self-trained imam of a
mosque in Surkh, Mullah Abdurakhman, expressed his conviction that the changes
which more highly educated clergy sought to introduce in traditional rites arose
from their desire to diminish the role of traditional religious leaders. Among the
“innovations” which he criticized were the inclusion of purely Muslim elements
into wedding ceremonies and the rejection of music and dancing. A half-decade
later, though, Surkh is moving in the direction of Chorkukh,
with both music and
dancing disappearing from weddings.
CULTURE IN THE FERGHANA VALLEY 289
If Chorkukh village exemplifies the new religious-national type of identity with
strong modernizing elements, and Surkh the hold of traditionalism, the Tajik vil-
lage of Khodzhai Alo embodies a national or ethno-national form of identity that
transcends political borders and has little or no religious content. Farm chairman
Abdukhalil Sharipov, who also chairs the village council, epitomizes this approach.
An economist by training, he is an active amateur archaeologist and custodian of
local antiquities. He believes that peoples develop only on the basis of cultural
continuity extending over eras and generations.
21
For this reason he took a personal
role in building a new mosque in Khodzhai Alo, painstakingly painting the ceiling
beams with classic national aphorisms, the sayings of sages, and the
Sayings of
Mohammed, ornamenting them all with Tajikistan’s national colors. At the entrance
he carved verses by the contemporary Tajik poet Bozor Sobir, who helped inspire
the national revival in the first years after independence.
22
For all his Tajik nationalism, the identity of Sharipov and many of his friends
from Khodzhai Alo and Vorukh is linked closely with the Ferghana Valley. Sharipov
does not at all understand the traditional music of southern Tajikistan (
falak), yet
he is an enthusiast for the traditional
shashmakom, which is immensely popular
in Sughd and the entire Ferghana Valley. Throughout the Soviet era this was per-
formed exclusively in Tajik, but today he listens with pleasure to
shashmakom in
Uzbek.
23
On the road between Khodzhai Alo and Vorukh there is an inscribed stone from
the eleventh to twelfth century indicating that the land was part of the (Turkic)
Karakhanid Empire and that the people who lived there were Sarts. Abdukhalil
Sharipov
24
views it as part of the local heritage and stresses the importance of the
inscription “Sarts live here”—a clear confirmation of the larger Ferghana Valley
identity that Sharipov also embraces.
This close view of the Isfara district of Tajikistan could be replicated in studies
of any districts in those parts of the Ferghana Valley belonging to Uzbekistan and
Kyrgyzstan. All would show clearly, as this look at Isfara district has done, how
complex and multi-layered identity is throughout the Ferghana Valley.
Do'stlaringiz bilan baham: