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civil society

  

153  J




clitoridectomy

  See

circumcision

.

coffee

Coffee is one of the most widely consumed 

brewed beverages in the world today, especially by 

adults. It is a stimulating drink made from husks 

and kernels obtained from berries of the coffee 

tree that are dried, roasted, ground, mixed with 

water, and then lightly boiled. Its story is inter-

woven with the history of Islamic religion, the 

cultures of the Middle East and Africa, and their 

early encounters with modern Europe. The story 

is partly reflected in the English word coffee itself, 

which came into the language in the 17th century 

from Arabic qahwa by way of Turkish kahveh (the 

Arabic letter w is pronounced as a v in Turkish). 

The word café came into English via Arabic, Turk-

ish, and then French. Even the scientific name 

for the tree that produces the most commonly 

used coffee berry, Coffea Arabica, suggests the 

beverage’s historical connection to the Arabian 

Middle East. The tree was originally native to 

Ethiopia in Northeast Africa, but it began to be 

cultivated in Arabia during the 14th or 15th cen-

tury. In order to better understand the history of 

coffee, one must trace how a berry native to Africa 

came to be cultivated and used by a

rabs

 to make 



a tasty beverage called qahwa, which then became 

a favorite drink in Ottoman t

Urkey

 and e


Urope

,

and then a global commodity grown in tropical 



regions of Southeast Asia, Africa, the Caribbean, 

and especially in l

atin

 a

merica



 (the center of cof-

fee production today).

There are several imaginative accounts about 

the discovery of coffee. The most familiar tale 

among Europeans and Americans is that of the 

Ethiopian goatherd who one day observed his 

goats dancing about after eating coffee berries. He 

tried the beans himself, found them to be invigo-

rating, and shared his discovery with a “monk,” 

who then roasted them and concocted a brew that 

allowed him and other monks to stay awake for 

their nightly 

prayer

s. A more historically valid 



account is provided by Abd al-Qadir al-Jaziri, a 

16th-century Muslim jurist, in a book he wrote 

about coffee drinking. He mentioned reports about 

a 15th-century Sufi shaykh known as al-Dhabhani 

from  y

emen


 who observed people using qahwa

for medicinal purposes during a visit to Ethio-

pia. Upon returning to Yemen, he also benefited 

from using it, and he recommended it as a bever-

age to his Sufi brothers. They found that it gave 

them more vigor and helped them stay awake on 

nights when they had long prayer vigils and 

dhikr

rituals. There are yet more accounts about coffee’s 

origins, but they generally agree that cultivating 

and drinking it began with the Sufis of Yemen. 

By 1511, it had reached the holy cities of m

ecca


and m

edina


, and then Yemeni Sufis introduced it 

to students and scholars at 

al

-a

zhar



 in c

airo


. In 

the mid-1500s, coffee became a popular beverage 

in the cities of s

yria


 and Turkey, especially in the 

Ottoman capital, i

stanbUl

. It later reached i

raq



i



ran

, and i


ndia

 with the help of pilgrims returning 

home from the 

haJJ


 to Mecca.

The coffee prepared in most of the Middle East 

is served very black with the grounds still in it; 

they are allowed to settle to the bottom of the cup 

before drinking. The first places to serve it to pay-

ing customers appear to have been taverns where 

wine was also available. In the 16th and 17th 

centuries, it began to be served at coffeehouses 

and streetside stalls in many Middle Eastern cit-

ies, where European travelers first began to notice 

it. According to an 18th-century French travel 

account, “All sorts of people come to these places, 

without distinction of religion or social position; 

there is not the slightest bit of shame in entering 

such a place, and many go there simply to chat 

with one another” (Hattox, 94). Storytellers and 

poets entertained coffeehouse customers with folk 

tales and epics about famous Muslim warriors 

or, in the case of Iran, Persian kings and princes. 

Today Middle Eastern men still frequent neighbor-

hood coffeehouses to do business; join friends to 

play cards, backgammon, and chess; listen to the 

radio; and watch soccer matches on television. At 

K  154  




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