Dedicated to the memory of our mentor Saburdzhana Yusupov, who with his interesting stories and tales taught us to love the motherland, native nature, our favorite city Khiva

Abdullah Abdurasulov
Senior Researcher of
Khorezm Mamun Academy,
Candidate of Historical Sciences


Ancient and eternally young – Khiva

Samarkand - decoration face of the whole earth,

Bukhara - the power of Islam.
Khazarasp - well-fortified castle,
Khiva - the Garden of Eden of peace of the Lord

One of the oldest cities in the world – Khiva - has a rich history. In order to see the city-patriarch in its integrity and safety, which introduced us some preserved through the ages rare monuments of the distant past, with thousands tourists arriving to admire in our city from all over the world come to admire. The following thoughts of the Japanese traveler S. Richigana expressing the words of the majority of tourists from the bottom of her heart: "Impressions received from your city are limitless, I do not know how to express my excitement and amazement. Khiva is a great miracle".

These words are really true. Khiva is the city of miracles. Blue dome, tall minarets, dazzling monuments fascinate every fan of beauty. Watching them one praises their creators. Indeed, when did city of Khiva came into being? How has its socio-economic and cultural life evolved after he became a town? This question naturally arises, in this book we will try to answer them as specifically as possible.
Khiva is one of the oldest cities in the world, the incomparable jewel of medieval Oriental architecture. The city is located 25 kilometers south from the present city of Urgench, on flat area. Once this area was part of the state of Khorezm. The first reliable information about the city of Khiva was found starting with the Xth century in the historical and geographical sources in the Arab-Persian language. One of the chroniclers of the period Al-Istahri (930 A.D.) added Khiva in the list of 30 contemporary to him large cities, he noted: "Khiva is located 8 farsahs from Khazarasp on the way to Djurdjania or Gurganj (now the city of Old Urgench in Turkmenistan)". And according to Al-Makhdisi (or rather Al Muqaddasi) distance between Khiva and Khazarasp was 8 devans (10 farsahs). Khiva and its surroundings, watered by channel Heykhanikh (modern Palvanyap), were beautiful and with every amenity. This channel was taken out as a branch of the Amu Darya.
In the works of Yakhut Hamavi (XIII century), Nizamiddin Shami (XIV century), Khiva is mentioned as a town located on the caravan route. Also Abdurazzakh Samarkand and historian of the era Navoi Mirkhond left their record about the city.
According to legend, in the ancient town of Khiva (in place of the current "Ichan Kala") there was a desert. On one of the branches of "Silk Road" there were caravans from Merv towards Djurdjania (Kunya Urgench). At the caravan route there was "Khivakh" well with drinking water. The city name appeared later on this place, it came from the name of the well " Khivakh".
Excerpts quoted in historical sources and legends are related to the life of the city in the Middle Ages. Reliable information about the origin of the city, especially in its initial stage, identified during the research, conducted by the Academy of Sciences of Uzbekistan in 1984-1993, respectively. Archaeological excavations conducted in the city of Khiva (6 times by excavation, 7 times by drilling) show that the territory of Ichan Kala originated in the V century BC. This was confirmed by the objects (ceramic items) and powerful pakhsas (mud walls) found in the lowest layers of the city. Ceramic objects, raw bricks found in a large amount under the city walls suggest that the age of the city is 2500 years old
According to historical sources, in 712 Khiva was conquered by the Arabs in the early ninth century, the territory of Khorezm (and territory of Khiva as well) was a part of the Samanid state. In this period the city was surrounded by well-strengthened wall. Since 1221 Khiva became dependent on the Mongol Empire. Since 1388 the city became a part of Timurids, from the beginning of the XVI century until 1920 it was the capital of the Khanate of Khiva (from February 1920 to October 1924 - the capital of the Khorezm People's Soviet Republic). Starting from the XVI century, a comprehensive development started in the city. There were built administrative, cultural and other buildings and structures. In 1616 in Khiva the first madrasa was built (out of frame) by Khivian Khan Mohammad Arab, thus Khan strengthened its credibility among local people. Then there were also built Hodzhamberdibiya (1688) and Shirgazihana (1719) madrasahs. The city started improving, the trade was developed. But the rise in the city life did not last long. The country was invaded by Iran. In 1740, the Shah of Iran Nadirshakh, conquering Samarkand and Bukhara, launched an attack on Khiva. In late autumn of 1740, Khiva was conquered by Iranian forces. Khiva historian Agehi writes about it like this: "24 (the day) the month (Rajab) of the Moon, on the third day of the week, Nadir executed 20 people from the Khorezm emirs (nobles), headed by Ilbars and Ishmukhammed. At the beginning of the month of Ramadan, moving from Honakhoha (Hankey) Khiva was laid saige to. "
After that, the country for a long time was dominated by the chiefs of the nomadic Turkmens yavmuts. As a result of bloody wars for power in the country between the Uzbek and local nobility, the country was ruined, the people came to extreme poverty. Finally, the bloody wars, internecine wars to some extent were brought to an end. Continuing the policy of strengthening the state begun in 1790 Muhammad Amin Inakhi, the son Avazbek inakh Iltuzar inakh (1804 - 1806) deposed another puppet Khan and declared himself Khan of Khiva. He thus laid the beginning of the reign of kungrad dynasty of khans of Khiva. From that time until 1920 city was ruled by khans of kungrat dynasty.
With the advent of inakhs, shattered walls of Khiva were again rebuilt in the period of Muhammad Amin inak in 1788. Inside the city, administrative buildings madrasahs Muhammad Amin inak’s madrasahs, Fazil bea’s, Juma Mosque minaret with high minatet were built. So the khivian historian Munis tells: "Iltuzar commanded to build in front of the palace the building of Divankhana and to lead Divankhana this case was instructed to the vizier Yusuf Mihtar. Mihtar gathered craftsmen and builders, architects and naccaches (master ornamentalists) from across the country. within three months, the Divankhana was completed".
During this period, Khan’s palace, army, arsenal, munition and gunpowder barn were located at the Arch (Kunya arch). Khan's Ark is the oldest part of the city, in the XVII century, it held the entire western territory of Ichan-Kala, located here Divankhana Khan (office), kurynyshhana (reception), Khan's harem, summer and winter mosque and mint.
By the XIX century the city expanded, it consisted of two parts, namely, Ichan-Kala - shakhristan (inner city) and Dishan- Kala - rabad (outer city), there were dozens of settlements located around the city.
Ichan-Kala (shahristan) consists of the original holistic architectural structures, surrounded by a high wall pakhsa, four city gates - Ata-Darvaza , Palvan-Darvaza , Tash-Darvaza and Bagchi- Darvaza oriented by the sides of the world. The walls of Ichan-Qala during the centuries several times were
destroyed and rebuilt again.
The perimeter of a circle of walls is about 2200 meters, the height is 8 - 10 meters, and the thickness of the walls at the base is equal to 7-10 meters. Ichan-Kala is built in the form is quadrangle, stretched from north to south, its length is 650 meters, width is 400 meters, that is, its territory covers an area of 26 hectares.
Before 1920, on the territory of Ichan-Kala of Khiva there were 33-mosque-qaumis (mahallas) and on the territory of Dishan Qala 33-mosque-qaumis (mahallas), each of which had its own name. Names of mahallas referred to the craft of population or noble people living in these mosque-qaumis. Namely, Chitkarlik (manufacturers of calico), Elakchilik (fabricators of sieve), Kulollar (potters), Misgarlik (coppersmiths), Gadaylar (poor), Atamurad kushbegi (Vizier left hand), Jakub mihtar (vizier of his right hand), Yusuf yasaulbashi (Head Khan's police), etc.
At that time, the city had 109 large and small streets, 79 mosques, 120 karihana (facilities and schools for readers of the Koran), 64 madrasahs.
The city began to grow mainly in the second half of the XIX century. This expansion took place in the eastern and north-west direction, and gradually began to move in the direction of the flow channel Palvanyap. But incessant internal strife and war interfered in the peaceful life of the city, slowed the development of the productive forces, were the cause of the depletion of the population. Specific information on the number of population of Khiva, who lived at that time in the city, has not been preserved. The sources of this information are contradictory. Relatively, examining this information, you can come to the following conclusion. In Khiva in the middle of the XIX century there were more than 20 thousand people. But, in the early XX century, the population of the city in order to get rid of harassment of Dzhunaidkhana, population was forced to go in different directions and move to the city Chardjui, Merv (Mary) (now these cities are located in the territory of Turkmenistan), Turtkul, Samarkand, Bukhara, Tashkent and other cities.. As a result, in 1924 the city population was 18,145 people. According to the census conducted in the same year, the city's population of Uzbeks was 16375, 101 Kazakhs, 46 Karakalpaks, 33 Turkmens, 394 Tatars and 122 people of other nationalities.
In the second half of XIX century tsarist Russia, in order to meet the needs in the industrial raw material and the expansion of the Russian lands and foreign markets, by taking "Going to the East" in the summer of 1865, conquered the city of Tashkent, in 1867 Kokand khanate, and in 1868 the Bukhara Emirate. By combining these areas Turkestan province was created. Tashkent became its administrative center; adjutant general von Kaufmann Konstantin Petrovich was appointed a governor-general of Turkestan. In the same year, Kaufman wrote to Khan of Khiva Mohammad Rahimhanu II, which called it a joint economic cooperation. But this letter from the Khan was left unanswered. Kaufman in 1869 sent a second letter to the Khan of Khiva. But Khan and the letter left unanswered.
In the spring of 1873 the Russian forces, headed by the Governor-General von Kaufmann, launched a military campaign against Khiva. Tsarist Russia had mobilized for the conquest of Khiva a well-armed strong army. Khivians failed to provide decent resistance to the enemy. The city was handed over to the enemy. On May 29, 1873 Khiva was occupied by Russian troops. On August 12, 1873 in the village of Gandimyan, near the city of Khiva, on the territory of the country palace brother Khan Atatzhan tyurya between Muhammad Rahim Khan of Khiva II (Feruz) and Russia (in the face of the Adjutant General von Kaufmann) was signed "Gandimyan contract". The agreement consisted of 18 points, according to the contract, in order to subsequently manage the Khanate, there was established "Devon Oliy" ("Supreme Council"), composed of 7 people (4 members of the royal administration, 3 representative khans of Khiva). In 1874, on the territory attached to the Russian Empire on the right bank of the Amu Darya, Amu Darya department was created with the center in Turtkul, and "Supreme Council" ("Oliy Devon") has been eliminated. According to the agreement, the town remained the administrative center of Khiva Khanate.
3 thousand years ago, Zoroastrianism - one of the oldest religions in the world appeared and the holy book "Avesta" was written in Khorezm. Historians of our region have identified more than 50 sites mentioned in Avesta. Of particular note is the city of Khiva, that is considered the pearl of Khorezm. It gave the world such great scientists, thinkers, poets and national heroes as Al-Xorezmi, Najmeddin Kubra Pakhlavan Makhmoud, Abulgazi Bakhadurkhan, Mukhammad Rakhimkhan Feruz, Shermukhammed Muniz and Mokhammed Riza Agekhi. The territory of the State historical-architectural Museum-Reservior "Ichan-Kala" in Khiva in 1969 received the official status of "open air museum". Known around the world for its unique historical and architectural monuments Khiva in 1990 was hundredth city included in the list of world heritage cities. No wonder, in the 28th session of UNESCO held in Paris, there were separately mentioned the role and importance of Khiva in the development of world culture. Based on this, on January 3, 1996 there was accepted a celebration of the 2500 anniversary of the city of Khiva and Bukhara by the Cabinet of Ministers to hold internationally.
For 20 years after the independence of Uzbekistan, in Khorezm on a large scale measures have been implemented to protect and promote the historical and architectural values. In anticipation of the 2500 anniversary of the city of Khiva, 1000 anniversary of Khorezm Academy of Mamun, most of the monuments of history and culture of Khiva have been restored, and the surrounding area landscaped. Restoration of some monuments and strengthening work continues to the present time.
The ancient city of Khiva, with well-preserved historicalb and architectural monuments, can rightly be called a city-museum under the open sky, which has incorporated the history of the whole of Khorezm. Every tourist, arriving in this city, among blue domes and tall minarets, feels like he is in a world of miraculous fairy tales of "Thousand and One Nights". These ancient streets evoke in thought the picture of the distant past. The monuments of folk architecture, which have not lost their authentic appearance despite the fact that they have been for many centuries, surprise people and enthrall people with its originality. Therefore, we consider it our duty, on the basis of the latest scientific research, to bring to the attention of a wide range of fans of ancient history some of its notable monuments.