Knitting technology, Third Edition

25.10
Overfed pile structures
Overfed pile structures
are achieved usually by supplying warp at a faster rate to the
back guide bar than is required for the conventional structure, so that the surplus
warp forces its way through to the surface on the technical face as a pile. One
example is 
airloop
, which is reverse locknit having a front-to-back guide bar run-in
ratio of approximately 1 to 2.3 instead of 1 to 1.2. The structure has a less definite
pile and a soft hand. A crepe effect is achieved but the pile height and density tends
to vary from centre to edge and the fabric is unstable and stretchy, like a single bar
structure. Another structure is made with locknit if the run-in of the two bars is the
same instead of having a front-to-back ratio of 4 : 3. Mechanisms have also been
used to produce similar effects; these include a tension bar that dips to feed more
yarn for either the overlap or the underlap, and patterning by selecting the tension
on the warp threads to reduce the pile yarn then later releasing it to overfeed. Vari-
ation in shade is achieved by using two different coloured warps, one in each guide
bar.
Fig. 25.8
Technical back of raised loop velour.

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Plain tricot structures knitted with two full set guide bars
321
Further information
darlington
,
k
.
d
., Analysis of tricot velour fabrics,
Knit
.
Times
, (1976), 16 Feb., 33–37.
thomas
,
d
.
g
.
b
., Warp knitted pile fabrics,
Brit. Knit. Ind.
, (1972), Oct., 98–101.
wheatley
,
b
., Production of cut velvet on Karl Mayer tricot machines,
Knit. Times
, (1972), 23 Oct., 78–82.
wilkins
,
c
., Warp knit terry constructions growing in importance,
Knit. Times Yr. Bk.
, (1980), 106–8.
Yarn
B-B
F-B
Run-in ratio
Locknit
1-0/1-2
2-3/1-0
3 : 4
Reverse Locknit
2-3/1-0
1-0/1-2
4 : 3
Sharkskin
3-4/1-0
1-0/1-2
5 : 3
Queenscord
4-5/1-0
1-0/0-1
9 : 4
Queenscord
3-4/1-0
1-0/0-1
9 : 5
Raised loop
1-0/1-2
1-0/3-4
5 : 9
Tricot
1-2/1-0
1-0/1-2
1 : 1
Satin
1-0/1-2
3-4/1-0
5 : 9