Key words:
"man - clothes - environment", decoration of the external appearance of a person,
noosphere, alkalinity, acid, cultural context.
Quality requirements for clothing. The quality of clothing is determined by the degree to which the
various requirements imposed on it by the consumer are met. In the process of consumption, clothing
satisfies various human needs - both tangible and intangible. The essence of the material needs satisfied
by clothing is to create conditions for maintaining the normal functioning of the human body. These
requirements, directly related to the main function of clothing, are called utilitarian. Non-material needs
are conditioned by the aesthetic ideals and views of a person, formed in the social environment in which
he lives. The complex of consumer requirements for clothing depends on its purpose, operating conditions.
Depending on the purpose, the main function of clothing is determined. So, for smart clothes, the aesthetic
function is important, i.e. decoration of the external appearance of a person, revealing and emphasizing the
best features. The main function of special clothing is to protect the human body from harmful production
factors (elevated temperature, splashes of molten metal, radioactive contamination, the action of acids,
alkalis, etc.).
The concern of society with environmental problems has become one of the reasons for the
formation of a new concept in design, radically revising the means, methods and values of its
implementation. This concept involves the inclusion of a design project in a real-life cultural context,
taking into account environmental factors.
The destruction of the natural environment in various forms has become a global process, the
consequences of which have led to the need for fundamental changes in many areas of human activity.
Modern philosophers, sociologists, ecologists, culturologists believe that the industrial civilization is being
replaced by a new one, which is called "information civilization", "ecological civilization", "noosphere".
The transition to ecological thinking means the establishment of ecological humanism as a fundamental
setting in design. "Ecological design" has no clearly defined boundaries - any direction in design that
affirms the principles of environmental ethics and focuses on the harmonization of human relations with
730
the outside world can be called ecological. Ergonomic requirements for clothing the creation of optimal
working conditions that ensure high productivity and the preservation of strength, health and performance
of a person largely depends on the quality of the functioning of the "man - clothing - environment" system.
Ergonomic requirements are determined by the characteristics of a person (anthropometric, physiological,
etc.) and the characteristics of the environment. When evaluating clothing, taking into account the
interaction of the elements of the "man - clothing - environment" system, anthropometric, hygienic and
psychophysiological requirements are of the greatest importance. One of the causes of the ecological crisis
is the excessive consumption of a "civilized" person. The problem of greening consumption has led to a
qualitative change in design tasks: not so much the improvement of form and function has come to the
fore, but the reduction of the excess number of design products, the revision of materials and technologies,
the formation of a new structure of needs. It is possible to reduce consumption volumes by extending the
period of use of products, achieving an optimal ratio of the costs of producing an item and the period of its
use, refusing disposable items, giving preference to good-quality durable items. A decrease in consumption
is facilitated by the commitment of modern clothing design to things that are not only durable (classic
accessories and knitwear), but also multifunctional. Many modern fashion designers are supporters of
things that are suitable for the frontal case and do not belong to any particular assortment group. Formation
of an ecologically correct style of the human immune system. Currently, about 5% of consumption implies
not only a reduction in consumption, but also an orientation towards the use of environmentally friendly
products, using harmless and waste-free and waste-free technologies. Eco-design refers to the use of
materials for the manufacture of clothing that do not cause side diseases and can be easily recycled. At all
stages of the history of civilization, clothing provided protection for the body (material) and served human
social activity (shape and color). No matter how ideas about the ideal, style and functionalit y of clothes
changed over time, these three components (material-shape-color) were unchanged. Is it pleasant to wear
clothes, what is the state of health in it, its convenience is determined by these factors: the ability to move
- material + shape; contact with body skin – material; visual impressions and mental aspect - material +
form + color. Therefore, the material is the determining factor.
The requirements that until recently were imposed on the material for clothing are well known: it
must be fashionable, keep its shape, be of high quality, pleasant to wear, easy to care for and inexpensive.
Researchers now argue that there is a risk of harm to human health from textile materials. Its sources
are the use of synthetic dyes and harmful chemicals (formaldehyde, chlorine) in the production, dyeing
and finishing of textile materials, as well as a general increase in environmental imbalance, and hence a
decrease in the reliability of the human immune system. Currently, about 5% of the European population
suffers from neurodermatitis, from 15 to 25% - atypical skin diathesis, 10% - allergy to nickel. 70% of
patients with neurodermatitis are allergic to wool, some synthetic fibers, such as lavsan and polyamide
threads, tolerate frost, while they react much better to cotton and silk.
731
In addition, the consumer is affected by physical factors. Poorly fitted, tight clothing does not ensure
the removal of excess body and moisture from the body, this causes skin irritation - eczema, which in turn
leads to various types of skin fungal diseases. The physical factors that cause incompatibility of skin and
clothing include the thickness of the fiber. If its diameter exceeds 0 µm, most people experience itching.
Substances used in the textile industry, in particular, rubber and elastic threads, formaldehyde, disperse
dyes, can cause allergies: instant (after 20 minutes or even earlier) and delayed (after 12-96 hours). Most
often, eczema from unhealthy textiles occurs on the neck, shoulders, elbows and kneecaps, in the groin
area, as well as on the thighs and buttocks. These are the places where the skin and clothing come into
closest contact. The main irritant here is the textile material, as well as those chemicals that were used in
its production and decoration. These materials should be replaced with natural materials traditional for
making clothes: linen, cotton, silk, wool.
The most promising ways are the creation of new materials with new operational properties that
have the ability to self-decompose and the development of harmless and waste-free production
technologies in order to obtain environmentally friendly products. Closed eco-cycles provide zero waste
technologies, reuse of resources, since the "garbage crisis" has become the most tangible sign of the
irrational use of raw materials. Recycling of raw materials is today the most popular way to solve the
problem of environmental pollution of raw materials, offering a variety of solutions: from recycling to
extending the life of used clothing. An interesting concept of ecological production is proposed by
supporters of the “alternative economy”, who believe that any production should be based on perfect
technology that ensures minimal waste of raw materials, and on small-scale production that takes into
account the specific needs of small groups of people, which will lead to enormous savings in resources. At
first glance, this seems paradoxical, but diverse styles, differential designs (ultimately designed for a small
group of consumers or for an individual) turn out to be much less wasteful and more eco-batch production.
Orientation to the execution of an individual order is thus one of the ways to combat excess production.
Ecological aesthetics requires design products to be: sensually perceived, attractive; favorably
influencing positive emotions; providing a person with the opportunity of creativity, free self-expression.
Design products require an active intellectual and emotional impact on the user, prompting him to create
his own image. A promising area of ecological design is the so-called non-technological design - design
of color and light, smells and sounds. Sounding clothes appear, clothes with light effects, clothes with
smells, clothes made of fabrics with liquid crystals that change color depending on the light or the
temperature of the human body. similar experiments with the latest technologies are carried out by Japanese
and Italian designers. The most important direction of the ecological movement is the ecology of culture.
The civilization of the future - an ecological civilization - should become a civilization of culture, creating
conditions for a free dialogue between different cultures is one of the most important vital needs. The
ecology of culture implies coexistence, dialogue, diversity of national cultures, different artistic languages,
732
preservation of regional and national traditions. An environmentally oriented designer refers to the
traditions of the material and spiritual culture of the region, trying to recreate the images of a person that
correspond to this ethno-cultural tradition. Among the tasks of the so-called regional design:
-creation of clothes corresponding to the climatic and natural conditions of the given tasks of the
so-called regional design - the creation of clothes corresponding to climatic and natural conditions. This
region, revived traditional types. Formation and relationship to the material. Modern clothing designers
are trying to recreate national images at a new level, corresponding both to tradition and to a new way of
life in a modern person.
However, the traditions of the material culture of other nations attract modern designers no less
than their own, and is a practical inexhaustible source of the new. Mixing elements of costumes from
different nations, the designer creates a completely new image, often not associated with a specific and
definitely recognizable creative source. Summing up, we can say that design products should act as a
stimulator of environmental consciousness, a clear argument in favor of environmental and economical
consumption in accordance with and one of the requirements of environmental aesthetics, which is
becoming one of the promising trends in modern aesthetics.
Do'stlaringiz bilan baham: |