Amer. Chem. Soc., 112, 4768–4774.
18.
GILES
C
H
(1989), ‘Dye–fibre bonds and their investigation’, in Theory of Coloration
of Textiles, 2nd Edition, Soc. Dyers and Colourists, Bradford, pp 97–168.
19.
HUNTER
C
A
and
SANDERS
J
A
(1990), ‘The nature of
π–π interactions’, J. Amer. Chem.
Soc., 112, 5525–5534.
20.
DESIRAJU
G
R
and
GAVEZOTTI
A
(1989), ‘From molecular to crystal structure; polynuclear
aromatic hydrocarbons’, J. Chem. Soc., Chem. Commun, 621–623.
21.
SINGH
J
and
THORNTON
J
M
(1990), ‘An automated method for the analysis of the
preferred packing arrangements between protein groups’, J. Mol. Biol., 211, 595–
615.
22.
LEWIS
D
M
(1996), Dyestuff–fibre interactions’, Internat. J. of Soc. Cosmetic Chem.,
18, 123–135.
23.
LEEDER
J
D
,
RIPPON
J
A
,
ROTHERY
F
E
and
STAPLETON
I
W
(1985), ‘Use of the transmission
electron microscope to study dyeing and diffusion processes’, Proc. 7th Int. Wool
Textile Res. Conf., Tokyo, 5, 99–108.
24.
LEEDER
J
D
,
RIPPON
J
A
and
STAPLETON
I
W
(1990), ‘Diffusion of dyes and other reagents
into the wool fibre’, Proc. 8th Int. Wool Textile Res. Conf., Christchurch, New
Zealand, IV, 227–238.
25.
RIPPON
J
A
(1992), ‘The structure of wool’, in Wool Dyeing, Society of Dyers and
Colourists, Bradford, pp 1–51.
26.
BRADY
P
R
(1990), ‘Penetration pathways of dyes into natural protein fibres, Proc. 8th
Int. Wool Textile Res. Conf., Christchurch, New Zealand, IV, 217–226.
© 2009 Woodhead Publishing Limited
The coloration of wool
211
27.
BRADY
P
R
(1992), ‘Diffusion of dyes into natural fibres’, Rev. Prog. in Col., 22, 58–78.
28.
LEWIS
D
M
and
SMITH
S
M
(1990), ‘Reactive dyes and wool damage’, Proc. 8th Int.
Wool Textile Res. Conf., Christchurch, New Zealand, IV, 177–186.
29.
SMITH
S
M
(1990), ‘The effect of reactive dyes and other alkylating agents on the
inhibition of wool damage during dyeing’, PhD Thesis, University of Leeds.
30.
HALL
R
O
(1937), ‘Fibre structure in relation to fur dyeing’, J. Soc. Dyers and Col.,
53, 341–344.
31.
NEGRI
A
P
,
CORNELL
H
G
and
RIVETT
D
E
(1993), ‘A model for the surface of keratin
fibres’, Textile Res. J., 63, 109–115.
32.
MEADE
S
J
,
DYER
J
M
,
CALDWELL
J
P
and
BRYSON
W
G
(2005), ‘Covalent attachment of
novel surface modifications to wool fabric via removal of surface lipids’, Proc. 11th
Int. Wool Textile Res. Conf., Leeds, CD, FWSA, 1–10.
33. Perachem Ltd (2006), Improvements in and Relating to Wool Treatment, PCT/GB
2006/002955.
34.
LEWIS
D
M
and
YAN
G
(1993), ‘The effect of various chromium species on wool
keratin’, J. Soc. Dyers and Col., 109, 193–198.
35.
LEWIS
D
M
and
YAN
G
(1994), ‘Chrome dyeing using chrome (III) salts’, J. Soc. Dyers
and Col., 110, 281–290.
36.
LEWIS
D
M
,
YAN
G
,
JULIA
R
M
,
CORDERCH
L
and
ERRA
P
(2000), ‘Chromium distribution
in wool by electron microscopy and X-ray energy dispersive analysis’, Textile Res.
J., 70, 315–320.
37.
LEWIS
D
M
and
YAN
G
(1995), ‘Chrome dyeing using anionic trivalent chromium
complexes as mordants’, J. Soc. Dyers and Col., 111, 316–323.
38.
LEWIS
D
M
and
YAN
G
(1995), ‘Chrome dyeing of wool with Cr
III
salts’, Proc. 9th Int.
Wool Textile Res. Conf., Biella, 111, 39–51.
39.
XING
J
and
PAILTHORPE
M
T
(1995), ‘Low chrome dyeing – eliminating Cr(VI) in the
exhausted bath by using Cr(III) as the mordant’, Textile Res. J., 65, 70–74.
40.
XING
J
and
PAILTHORPE
M
T
(2000), ‘Chrome dyeing of cashmere with SCA-Cr as the
mordant’, J. Soc. Dyers and Col., 116, 91–93.
41.
LEWIS
D
M
,
HORNETT
C
,
SMITH
P
and
YAN
G
(2002), ‘Chrome dyeing of wool using
anionic chromium (III) complexes’, Adv. in Col. Sci. & Techn., 5, 13–17.
42.
BURLEY
R
W
(1955), ‘Some observations of the extension, contraction and
supercontraction of wool’, Proc. 1st Int. Wool Textile Res. Conf., Melbourne, D, 88–
117.
43.
KING
D
G
and
BRADY
P
R
(1995), ‘Scientific and practical aspects of chrome dyeing’,
Proc. 9th Int. Wool Textile Res. Conf., Biella, III, 52–59.
44.
DENNING
R
J
,
FREELAND
G
N
and
GUISE
G
B
(1995), ‘Developing a zero AOX continuous
shrink-resist process’, Proc. 9th Int. Wool Textile Res. Conf., Biella, I, 208–216.
45.
DOUTHWAITE
F
J
and
LEWIS
D
M
(1994), ‘The formation of cysteine-S-sulphonate in
wool and the effect on shrink-resistance’, J. Soc. Dyers and Col., 110, 304–307.
46.
SCHÜREK
P
,
METELERKAMP
R
G
M
and
BARKHUYSEN
F
A
(1995), ‘Continuous AOX-free
shrink-resist treatment of wool’, Proc. 9th Intl. Wool Textile Res. Conf., Biella, I,
199–207.
47.
LEWIS
D
M
(1973), ‘A combined cold dyeing and resin finishing process for the
production of washable wool fabrics, Textilveredlung, 8, 151–158.
48.
LEWIS
D
M
(1982), ‘The dyeing of wool with reactive dyes’, J. Soc. Dyers and Col.,
98, 165–175.
49.
CHURCH
J
S
,
DAVIE
A
S
,
SCAMMELLS
P
J
and
TUCKER
D
J
(1999), ‘Chemical interactions of
α-bromoacrylamide reactive dyes with wool’, Rev. Prog. in Col., 29, 85–93.
© 2009 Woodhead Publishing Limited
Advances in wool technology
212
50.
HEYNA
J
and
SCHUMACHER
W
(1949), German Patent 965 902, Farbwerke Hoechst.
51.
BÜHLER
A
,
HURTER
R
,
MÄUSEZAHL
D
and
PETITPIERRE
J
C
(1975), ‘Nachbargruppenbeteiligung
beim Farben Stickstoffgruppenhaltiger Substrate mit Halogenacrylamidfarbstoffen’,
Proc. 5th Int. Wool Textile Res. Conf., Aachen, 5, 263–272.
52.
CHRISTOE
J
O
and
DATYNER
A
(1971), ‘The effect of surfactants on rates of hydrolysis
and covalent bonding of some reactive dyes with selected amino acids and wool’,
Applied Polymer Symposium, No. 18, 447–462.
53.
FELDTMAN
H
D
and
MCPHEE
J
R
(1964), ‘The spreading and adhesion of polymers on
wool’, Textile Res. J., 34, 634–642.
54.
HILDEBRAND
D
and
MEIER
G
(1971), ‘Kinetics of wool dyeing by means of Verofix
dyestuffs’, Textil Praxis Intl, 26, 499–504.
55.
OSTERLOH
F
(1968), ‘Neue Möglichkeiten des Wollechtfarbens mit Reaktivfarbsoffen’,
Melliand Textilberichte, 49, 1444–1448.
56.
LEWIS
D
M
and
SELTZER
I
(1971), ‘The dyeing of wool treated with Hercosett 57’, Proc.
4th Int. Wool Textile Res. Conf., Applied Polymer Symposia No. 18, Berkeley, 437–
446.
57.
MÜLLER
B
M
(1992), ‘Absorbable organic halogens in textile effluents’, Rev. Prog.
Color., 22, 14–21.
58.
FARNWORTH
A
J
and
DELMENICO
J
(1971), Permanent Setting of Wool, Merrow, Watford.
59.
COOK
J
R
and
DELMENICO
J
(1971), ‘Permanent press effects in wool. 5. Methods of
stabilizing set’, J. Textile Inst., 62, 27–46.
60.
COOKSON
P
G
,
FINCHER
K
W
and
BRADY
P
R
(1991), ‘Minimising the impairment of the
physical properties of wool during dyeing by restricting the level of permanent set’,
J. Soc. Dyers and Col., 107, 135–138.
61.
STEENKEN
I
and
ZAHN
H
(1986), ‘Investigation of the alkaline modification of wool
using new analytical methods for the determination of degradation’, J. Soc. Dyers
and Col., 102, 269–273.
62.
MILLIGAN
B
and
MACLAREN
J
A
(1981), ‘Alkali, alkylamines and cyanides’, in Wool
Science – the Chemical Reactivity of Wool, Science Press, NSW, Australia, 99–102.
63.
ZAHN
H
(1995), ‘Wool chemistry and processing’, Plenary Lecture – 9th Int. Wool
Textile Res. Conf., Biella, I, 1–16.
64.
MIZELL
L
R
and
HARRIS
M
(1943), ‘Nature of the reaction of wool with alkali’, J. Res.
National Bureau of Standards, 30, 47–53.
65.
SPEAKMAN
J
B
(1936), ‘The reactivity of the sulphur linkage in animal fibres. 1. The
chemical mechanism of permanent set’, J. Soc. Dyers and Col., 52, 335–346.
66.
SANGER
F
,
RYLE
A
P
,
SMITH
L
F
and
KITAI
R
(1955), ‘The distribution of cystine residues
in insulin’, Proc. Int. Wool Textile Res. Conf., Melbourne, C, 49–61.
67.
RYLE
A
P
,
SANGER
F
,
SMITH
L
F
and
KITAI
R
(1955), ‘Disulphide bonds of insulin’,
Biochem. J., 60, 541–556.
68.
KØ
´
PKE
V
(1970), ‘The role of water in setting of wool – a study of setting at temperatures
above 100 degrees C. 1. Degree of set’, Textile Res. J., 61 361–387.
69.
LEWIS
D
M
(1990), ‘The effect of reactive dyes on damage in wool dyeing’, J. Soc.
Dyers and Col., 106, 270–274.
70.
BROCK
D
,
YOUSEFF
T
and
LEWIS
D
M
(1999), WO 99/51684, WO 99/51686 and WO 99/
51687, to Procter and Gamble.
71.
LEWIS
D
M
and
SMITH
S
M
(1995), ‘Substituted thiol derivatives of vinyl sulphone
dyes’, Dyes and Pigments, 29, 275–294.
72.
LEWIS
D
M
(2004), ‘Mechanisms of setting/antisetting in wool dyeing’, Adv. in Col.
Sci. and Technol, 7, 1–5.
© 2009 Woodhead Publishing Limited
The coloration of wool
213
73.
LEWIS
D
M
and
SMITH
S
M
(1991), ‘The role of vinylsulphonyl dyes in prevention of
wool damage’, J. Soc. Dyers and Col., 107, 357–362.
74.
COOKSON
P
G
,
BRADY
P
R
,
FINCHER
K
W
,
DUFFIELD
P
A
,
SMITH
S
M
,
REINCKE
K
and
SCHREIBER
J
, ‘The Basolan AS Process: a new concept in wool dyeing’, J. Soc. Dyers and Col.,
111, 228–236.
75.
KIM
J
and
LEWIS
D
M
(2002), ‘The effect of various anti-setting systems in wool
dyeing. part 1: hydrogen peroxide based systems’, Coloration Technol, 118, 121–
124.
76.
KIM
J
and
LEWIS
D
M
(2003), ‘The effect of various anti-setting systems in wool
dyeing. Part 4: Sodium tetrathionate based systems, Coloration Technol, 119, 112–
115.
77.
KIM
J
and
LEWIS
D
M
(2002), ‘The effect of various anti-setting systems in wool
dyeing. Part 2: Sodium maleate based systems’, Coloration Technol, 118, 181–184.
78.
LIAO
Q
and
BRADY
P
R
(2000), ‘A study of the reaction between wool and N-
naphthylmaleimide using Raman spectroscopy and measurement of changes in fabric
tensile properties’, Proc. 10th Int. Wool Textile Res. Conf., Aachen, CD paper code
F1–15.
79.
LYE
J
(2002), Kimberley Clark, WO 02/31067.
© 2009 Woodhead Publishing Limited
9
Improving the whiteness and
photostability of wool
K. R. M I L L I N G T O N, CSIRO Materials Science and
Engineering, Australia
Do'stlaringiz bilan baham: |