36
The Americas
The Economist
September 5th 2020
2
F
ew american
towns are as remote as
Hyder, a settlement of 65 people in the
panhandle that juts south from the rest
of Alaska between Canada and the Pacif-
ic. Its only road connection passes
through Stewart, British Columbia, 2km
away. For generations, Stewardites and
Hyderites paid little attention to the
border. They celebrate Canada Day on
July 1st in Stewart, then move the party to
Hyder, “the friendliest ghost town in
Alaska”, for the United States’ Indepen-
dence Day three days later. Activities
include an ugly-vehicle contest and the
“chicken-shit board”, in which bets are
placed about which square in a grid a
chicken will defecate on. Hyderites buy
petrol and groceries in Stewart. Their
telephone numbers use Canadian area
codes (250 or 778).
The back-and-forth between the
former gold-mining towns stopped in
March when the border between the two
countries closed because of covid-19.
Under a special dispensation, Canada
allows Hyderites to go to Stewart once a
week for four hours. That is not enough.
Wes Loe, Hyder’s postmaster and un-
official mayor, would normally drive to
Terrace in British Columbia, 300km
away, to stock up for winter, but the
lockdown rules don’t allow that. Soon,
the roads will be too dangerous. “Things
are deteriorating, and I mean emotional-
ly and mentally,” says Mr Loe.
The border is lightly policed. There is
no American post. The Canadian guard’s
shift ends at 4.30pm. Cameras and a
telephone connection to an agent some-
where else in Canada keep watch after
that. If Hyderites break the rules, “an
alarm and sirens would be set off and the
rcmp
[Royal Canadian Mounted Police]
will be notified, and that’s just not the
thing we would do,” says Mr Loe.
Most Canadians are eager to keep
Americans out. The United States’ co-
vid-19 infection rate is five times Cana-
da’s. Canadians post pictures of suspect-
ed American intruders on social media.
Some in cars with American plates affix
signs to their windows saying they’re
Canadians returning home. From March
21st to August 19th Canada turned away
14,000 Americans from its borders. It
allows Alaskans to travel home across
Canada from the lower 48 states, but they
can enter in only five places and must
take the most direct route.
But Hyderites and Stewardites value
togetherness. Mr Loe and Gina McKay,
Stewart’s mayor, want the towns to be
able to form a bubble that would let their
citizens mingle freely. Alaska’s governor,
Mike Dunleavy, and Taylor Bachrach, the
Canadian
mp
who represents Stewart,
have lobbied the Canadian security
minister to let that happen. So far, they
have had no luck. “We’re two countries,
two communities but for as long as
anyone can remember, we’ve essentially
operated as one,” says Ms McKay. “We’re
used to isolation up here but we don’t
want to be isolated from each other.”
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