one point, we were in a hide overlooking the walled-in boundaries
of a large cemetery that sat in the middle of the city. Roughly three
football fields long by two football fields wide, it was a cement city
of the dead, filled with tombstones and mausoleums. We set up on
a roof near a prayer tower and mosque overlooking the cemetery.
The roof we were on was fairly elaborate. It was ringed with a
brick wall punctuated with iron grates,
giving us excellent firing
positions; I sat down on my haunches and spotted in my rifle
through a gap in the grid work, studying
the paths between the
stones a few hundred yards out. There was so much dust and grit in
the air, I kept my goggles on. I’d also learned in Fallujah to keep
my helmet cinched tight, wary of the chips and cement frags that
flew from the battered masonry during a firefight.
I picked out some figures moving through the cemetery yard. I
zeroed in on one and fired.
Within seconds, we were fully engaged in a firefight. Insurgents
kept popping up from behind the stones—I don’t know if there was
a tunnel or where they came from. Brass flew from the 60 nearby.
I studied my shots as the Marines around me poured out fire.
Everything they did faded into the background as I carefully put my
scope on a target, steadied the aim on center mass, then squeezed
ever so smoothly. When the
bullet leapt from the barrel, it was
almost a surprise.
My target fell. I looked for another. And another. And on it
went.
Until, finally, there were no more. I got up and moved a few feet
to a spot where the wall completely shielded me from the cemetery.
There I took my helmet off and leaned back against the wall. The
roof was littered with spent shells—hundreds if not thousands.
Someone shared a large plastic bottle of water. One of the
Marines pulled his ruck over and used it as a pillow, catching some
sleep. Another went downstairs, to the store on the first story of the
building. It was a smoke shop; he returned with cartons of flavored
cigarettes. He lit a few, and a cherry scent mingled with the heavy
stench that always hung over Iraq, a smell of sewage and sweat and
death.
Just another day in Fallujah.
T
he streets were covered with splinters and various debris. The
city,
never exactly a showcase, was a wreck. Squashed water
bottles sat in the middle of the road next to piles of wood and
twisted metal. We worked on one block
of three-story buildings
where the bottom level was filled with shops. Each of their awnings
were covered with a thick layer of dust and grit, turning the bright
colors of the fabric into a hazy blur. Metal shields blocked most of
the storefronts; they were pockmarked with shrapnel chips. A few
had handbills showing insurgents wanted by the legitimate
government.
I have a few photos from that time. Even in the most ordinary
and least dramatic scenes, the effects of war are obvious. Every so
often, there’s a sign
of normal life before the war, something that
has nothing to do with it: a kid’s toy, for example.
War and peace don’t seem to go together right.
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