Knitting technology, Third Edition



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Further information
anon
., Symposium on fully-fashioned knitting (articles published in the 
Hos
.
Trade J
. between August
and October 1970, also published in booklet form.).
bradley
,
s
.
b
.,
Fully fashioned hose manufacture
, (1953) Harlequine Press, Manchester, UK.
jurenak
,
a
., The Vesta multi-compact machine.
Knit
.
Tech
., (1/99), 14–15.
millington
,
j
., Fully-fashioned,
Knit
.
Int
. (1996) Nov., 48, 49.
mills
,
r
.
w
.,
Fully fashioned garment manufacture
, (1965) Cassell, London, UK.


18
Flat knitting, basic principles and structures
18.1
History
The first 
flat bar machine 
(Section 8.4.2) was demonstrated in 1862 and patented in
1865 by the 
Rev. Isaac Wixom Lamb
, an American clergyman. He later changed the
arrangement to the inverted V-bed shape patented by 
Eisenstuck
.
18.2
The two types of flat machine
Two types of flat machine evolved. The widely used 
V-bed rib
machine and the
slower, more specialised 
flat bed purl
or 
links-links machine.
V-bed machines
have two rib gated, diagonally-approaching needle beds, set at
between 90 and 104 degrees to each other, giving an inverted V-shape appearance.
Flat bed purl (links-links) machines
have horizontal needle beds. They have been
employed mainly in knitting simulated hand-knitted constructions of a speciality
type, such as cable stitch, basket purl, and lace patterning. They use 
double-headed
latch needles
that are transferred to knit in either of two directly opposed needle
beds. The non-knitting hook is controlled in the manner of a needle butt by a
slider
that hooks onto it. There is a set of sliders in each needle bed whose butts are con-
trolled by the traversing cam-carriage to produce knitting or transfer of the needles
(see Section 7.5).
These complex and slow machines are no longer built because the modern elec-
tronic V-bed machines can knit all the links-links designs using the facilities of rib
loop transfer and needle bed racking.
Early 
intarsia
machines employed a different approach, using only one needle
bed to knit solid colour designs. Now, however, many modern V-bed machines have
intarsia-patterning facilities and are no longer restricted to geometrical designs
because the mechanically-controlled carrier stops have been replaced by more ver-
satile electronic controls.


208
Knitting technology

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