Knitting technology, Third Edition

17.11
The rib-to-plain machine
Despite automation in transferring rib border fabric from the V-bed flat machines
onto straight bar frames, the operation requires the co-ordination not only of the
fabric but also of extra labour and machinery, and involves additional factory space.
The rib-to-plain technique [4] pioneered by 
S
.
A. Monk
tried to overcome these
problems. It involves a straight bar frame that can knit an integral rib border start
with a less complex mechanical action than that of the conventional rib frame.
During rib border knitting, an ancillary set of horizontally-arranged latch needles
(‘
machine needles
’) co-operates with only the even needles of the vertical bearded
needle bar (‘
frame needles
’). At the commencement of the fully-fashioned panel,
the machine needles transfer their loops onto the re-introduced odd frame needles
so that a full set of plain needles is in action (Fig. 17.6). Unfortunately, this and the
Bentley Cotton CRP were capitally expensive and complex, and never seriously
challenged the existing method of automatic rib transfer.

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The straight bar frame and full-fashioning
205
17.12
Patterned structures
Although noted for the production of plain, classic, fully-fashioned knitwear, the
straight bar frame is capable of utilising stitch patterns whose scope is dependent
upon the particular machine’s facilities. These may include lace, coloured designs,
tuck stitches and combinations of these stitches [5].
Lacing points
operate in a similar manner to fashioning points. Sets of points
fixed in boxes will produce symmetrical effects, whereas individually-controlled
points may be used to produce motifs. Between transfer actions, the points are
racked sideways for re-positioning. Lace effects are determined by the type of
pattern control, the number and type of points available, the point set-out, the direc-
tion and extent of the transfer movement, and the number of plain knitted courses
between transfer actions [6].
Cable stitch designs
in two-cord cross-over of three wales are possible on some
machines, with the cord being emphasized by removal of a number of needles on
either side of it, leaving a gap up to the adjacent wales.
Coloured designs
are achieved with a number of carrier rods having different
coloured yarns. The designs range from simple horizontal stripes to plating and 
elaborate intarsia patterns. One machine also uses guides in order to make 
tartan
designs
[7].
Tuck stitch designs
are generally achieved by replacing the leading pressing edge
of the sinker bed with individual presser bits, one for each needle beard. The presser
bits are carried on slides that receive their forward pressing movement from steel
strips on a tambour (drum). Punched positions in the steels do not advance their
slides and thus produce tuck stitches. After each course, a different selection may
be produced by racking the drum.