Knitting technology, Third Edition

24.4.1
The knitting action of the compound needle warp knitting machine
Figure 24.7 illustrates the knitting action of a compound needle warp knitting
machine:
1
Needle rise and guide bar swing.
With the sinkers forward holding down the
fabric, the hooks and tongues rise, with the hook rising faster, until the head of

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Knitting technology
the latter is level with the guide holes and is open. The guides then swing through
to the back of the machine.
2
The overlap and return swing.
The guides shog for the overlap and swing to the
front of the machine; immediately, the hooks and the tongues start to descend
with the tongues descending more slowly, thus closing the hooks.
3
Landing and knock-over.
The sinkers start to withdraw as the needles descend
so that the old loop is landed onto the closed hook and then knocked-over as it
descends below the sinker belly. At this point the underlap occurs before the
needles begin their upward rise and the sinkers move forward to hold down the
fabric.
The 
Karl Mayer
tricot model HKS 2–3 E is designed to knit elastic fabrics and
has a maximum speed of 3300 cpm with reduced noise levels and energy consump-
tion. The vertical staggered arrangement of the guide bars enables the stroke to be
reduced. The bars are hollow section which reduces their weight and expansion due
to heat.
24.5
The crochet machine
In hand crocheting, a hook is used to draw a new loop through the old loop with
the chains of loops being joined together at intervals.
On crochet machines, the warp chains are separate from the weft inlay and it is
the latter threads that join the chaining wales to each other
.
The 
crochet galloon
machine, as developed by 
Sander and Graff
and popularised by 
Kholer
, is essen-
tially a highly versatile raschel with the following unique features (Figures 24.8 and
24.9):
•
A 
single horizontal needle bar
whose simple reciprocating action can be used to
operate individually-tricked latch, carbine or embroidery needles.
The 
patent
or 
carbine bearded needle
is used for fine structures and has a side-
ways crimped beard placed in a permanently-pressed position. Although warp
threads can only be fed into the beard from the left (necessitating a unidirec-