Knitting technology, Third Edition

16.4.2
The calculation of fashioning frequencies
Using the details shown in Fig. 16.11 as an example, the following sequence is nec-
essary in order to calculate the required fashioning frequencies from the dimensions
of a garment part:
1
Convert the length dimensions in each section to total number of courses by
multiplying the length measurement by the cpi. Thus, 7 
¥
20 
=
140; 4 
¥
20 
=
80;
5 
¥
20 
=
100 courses.
Fig. 16.8
Wale fashioning (widening).

---

186
Knitting technology
2
Convert the width dimensions at the start of each section to total numbers of
needles by multiplying the width measurement by wpi. Thus, 16 
¥
16 
=
256;
18 
¥
16 
=
288; 8 
¥
16 
=
128 needles.
3
Calculate the total number of needles increased or decreased from one section
to another by taking one total from the next.
4
Divide the totals obtained by 2 in order to obtain the increase or decrease of
needles at one selvedge. Thus, 288 
-
256 
=
an increase of 32 needles. 32/2 
=
16
Fig. 16.9
Integrally shaped rib garment pieces. The machine has an additional bed
containing the transfer points [Shima Seiki].

---

Welts, garment sequences and knitting to shape
187
Fig. 16.10
Modern integral garment technology assures precisely-formed loops which are
crucial to the production of shaped garments [Shima Seiki].

---

188
Knitting technology
single needle widenings; 288 
-
128 
=
160; 160/2 
=
80 needles, 80/2 gives 40 double-
needle narrowings
5
There are 16 single-needle widenings occurring during the knitting of 140
courses; assuming the first fashioning occurs in the first course, there will be 15
fashionings in 139 courses; 139/15 
=
9 with a remainder of 4. Thus 4 fashionings
must occur at 10 course intervals and the remaining 11 at 9 course intervals.
6
Forty double-needle narrowings occur during 100 courses, again assuming the
first fashioning occurs in the first course; 99/39 
=
2 with a remainder of 21. Thus
21 fashionings occur at 3 course intervals and the remaining 18 fashionings occur
at 2 course intervals.