Knitting technology, Third Edition

19.11
Meeting the requirements of a shaping machine
In order to knit shaped panels or integral garments, it is necessary to meet a number
of exacting requirements which can only be achieved with a specially designed fully
computerized V-bed flat machine having the characteristics set out in Sections
19.11.1 to 19.11.7.
19.11.1
The shaping control programme
The shaping control programme needs to have sufficient memory to include the data
for all the parts of a garment, whether integrally knitted or sequentially knitted
shaped-pieces, in the complete range of sizes.
Shaping in width can only be achieved on machines freed from the constraints
of constant-width traverse. On electronic machines, the computer is linked to the
cam-carriage whose variable traverse and speed is driven from a belt. The traverse
distance is varied by the belt drive, which transports the yarn carriers so that they
follow the selvedge edge.
19.11.2
Variable-width carriage traverse
One of the most important features of shaping is keeping the cam-carriage traverses
to the minimum width using a lightweight compact cam-carriage and belt drive,
combined with knitting/transfer cams, and needle butts that are sunk when out of
action.
19.11.3
The shaping method
Fashion shaping using loop transfer is the most satisfactory method of introducing
shape into garment blanks. It is employed on straight bar frames in the form of plain
loop transfer, using a set of rackable fashioning points. Although separate loop
transfer fashioning points are employed on some V-bed machines, the most common
method is to use the needles to rib loop transfer from needle bed to needle bed,
combined with needle bed racking to move the selvedge loops inwards or outwards.
Care must be taken to ensure that receiving needles are empty of loops.