Knitting technology, Third Edition

16.4.3
Three-dimensional wale fashioning
Shaping by three-dimensional wale fashioning occurs within the width of needles,
using an additional pair of independently-controlled fashioning boxes to shape
stocking heels or bosom pouches. In the centre of the pouch, a number of needles
knit plain fabric whilst on either side of them the extra sets of points widen out-
wards and later narrow again.
During widening, each needle that loses its loop and does not receive a new loop
will commence a new wale in the next course, whereas, during narrowing, when a
needle receives two loops, two wales will be caused to converge into one.
16.4.4
Needle selection shaping
In 
needle selection shaping
, the selvedge needle(s) is introduced or withdrawn from
the knitting width by means of needle selection. It is more convenient on automatic
Fig. 16.11
Full-fashioned shaping calculation.

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Welts, garment sequences and knitting to shape
189
V-bed flat machines to employ the jacquard selection to introduce empty needles
for widening and to take needles out of action for narrowing
(i)
by transferring and re-transferring rib loops in conjunction with needle bed
racking,
(ii)
by pressing-off loops, or
(iii)
by causing needles to hold their loops for large numbers of traverses 
(Fig. 16.12) [1].
It is even possible to introduce or remove a selvedge needle from the knitting action
during tubular plain knitting on a V-bed flat machine, thus achieving a certain
amount of shape in the tube.
The full shaping potential of the V-bed flat machine can only be exploited if the
conventional roller take-down system is replaced by an arrangement capable of
accommodating itself to varying rates of production and fabric widths and even to
separated garments or garment pieces.