526
of the 11
th
century. The production of lunula pendants with granulation had emerged under the
direct influence of the Danubian workshops. It is clear that for the first periods the Danube region
played a special role of the mediator in the reception of Byzantium, and the migration of craftsmen
could be its specific mechanism. However such prestigious elements of byzantine male costume of
the 10
th
century as belt-buckles and bronze engraved rings finds of which are known in the Eastern
Europe had not been accepted in the local culture. In the end of 11
th
century the formation of the
new ceremonial Old Rus’ women costume have been attested. This costume existed up to the mid
of the 13
th
century. In that case we can reveal the adaptation of the byzantine models through the
politic, diplomatic and ecclesiastical contacts between Kiev and Constantinople. The full dress of
this period included various types of ornaments with cloisonné enamel on gold – diadems
, kolty,
ryasny
– that are supposed to be borrowed by the Rus’ directly from Byzantium. However, close
parallels to the Old Rus’ diadems have been presented by gold item from Preslav, Bulgaria, second
half of 10
th
century. So, in this case, Bulgaria, too, could be regarded as a mediator in the process of
the reception of Byzantium. It should be noted that the favorite type of women temple decorations
were
kolty
ornaments and three-bead temple-rings or earrings that had been firstly produced by
Byzantine craftsmen. Meanwhile, in the 12
th
-13
th
century the simple lead replicas of
kolty
which
could be regarded as local imitations of prestigious dress items have been attested in Novgorod,
Volhynia, and Vladimir-Suzdal land. The reception of the byzantine fashion in the Eastern Europe
was enough selective and transformative. In very rare cases in hoards and among archaeological
finds the complete set of adornments and dress accessories can be attested. The analysis of sources
shows that several items could be used as
ex-voto
offerings to venerable icons. In that condition
the reconstruction of medieval women causal and ceremonial dress is one of the most important
scientific problems. The end of the 13
th
– 14
th
century did not present any clearly seen byzantine
elements of Byzantine women dress in Russian culture. In that time the reception was probably
limited by the importation of prestigious textiles and gold-clothe and was characteristic of the
reusing of previously received byzantine elements and their imitation. The oriental fashion began to
dominate in the culture and society.
Do'stlaringiz bilan baham: