Implications for the development

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Oлєна КОЗАКЕВИЧ
кандидат искусствоведения, научный сотрудник
Институт народоведения 
Национальной академии наук Украины
email: [e-mail]
ДЕКОР ТРАДИЦИОННЫХ РУБАШЕК «СОРÓЧОК» НА ЗАКАРПАТСКОЙ 
ГУЦУЛЬЩИНЕ КОНЦА XIX – НАЧАЛА XXI вв.: КРУЖЕВО
Summary. Décor of traditional shirts “sorochkas” in transcarpathian hutsul region of the end 
XIX 
– early XXI centuries: lace. 
In the paper local features of traditional shirts “sorochkas” in sets of 
clothes in Transcarpathian Hutsul region of the end XIX 
– early XXI centuries are discussed. Open-
work items` universal and unique parameters in the context of Hutsul folk clothing in time dimension 
slice are defined. Special attention is focused to décor, namely lace. Based on literature sources and 
author`s field researches local features of items this typological group, in particular, the methods of 
decoration, which were formed as a result of the socio-cultural and ethnic characteristics of this terri-
tory are analysed. Technique and technological methods of manufacturing textile adornments, ways 
of forming their artistic and stylistic features, local versions of ornaments are studied. On the grounds 
of on these studies, the most striking centers of openwork decor have been identified. Defined that 
the folk clothing and their décor in north territories (Yasinia, Chorna Tysa, Lazenshchyna, Kvasy, 
Bilyn) has general characteristics with the clothing of Galician Hutsul region (Voronenko, Vorokhta, 
Yablunytsia). Openwork adornments of shirts in this territory were fragmented: connecting stitches 
by embroidery or knitting techniques were made. And on the contrary, the clothes of the southern 
part of the Rakhiv region are more similar to the Slovak and Romanian clothing for the structural 
elements and décor. For example, lace decor, crocheted or industrially made, is common in female 
shirts of the «Volokh» (Romanian) type. Ornaments of this territory mainly consists of phytomorphic 
motifs (inflorescences, buds, twigs, leaves). Thus, the combination of embroidery, lace, textures and 
structural details created a unique for the ethnographic Hutsul region, but a widespread and typical 
for the Ukrainian-Romanian borderland the décor type of traditional female shirts “sorochkas”. A 
number of works, photographs, respondents` narratives and local terms obtained during expeditions 
have been introduced into scientific use.