Guide to traveling in uzbekistan (and why you should absolutely do it)

A COMPLETE GUIDE TO TRAVELING IN UZBEKISTAN (AND WHY YOU SHOULD ABSOLUTELY DO IT)
When I told people that I was going to Uzbekistan for 10 days, the reactions I got all shared a similar sentiment. “Why Uzbekistan?” “Where is that?” “I literally know nothing about that place.”

Truth is, I barely knew anything about traveling to Uzbekistan either. But having been to many “popular” destinations in the past, I was thirsty to explore somewhere less-known; somewhere relatively untouched.

As it turns out, Uzbekistan is actually not as hidden as I had thought — there were quite a lot of tourists — but it’s still one of the most underrated and breathtaking places I’ve ever visited. So here’s a guide on what to do and what to expect in Uzbekistan. I hope it will convince you to pay a visit too!

Table of Contents hide

BACK STORY: UZBEKISTAN AND THE SILK ROAD
GETTING TO UZBEKISTAN — BY AIR OR BY CAR
BY AIR
BY CAR
ABOUT THE UZBEKISTAN VISA
WHAT TO SEE IN UZBEKISTAN — A SAMPLE ITINERARY
SAMARKAND
How long you should stay: 2-3 days
Must-see places in Samarkand
BUKHARA
How long you should stay: 2-3 days
Must-see places in Bukhara:
KHIVA
How long you should stay: 1-2 days
Must-see places in Khiva:
TASHKENT
How long you should stay: 1-2 days
Must-see places in Tashkent:
GETTING AROUND UZBEKISTAN
BY TRAIN
BY AIR
BY TAXI
ACCOMMODATION IN UZBEKISTAN
WHERE TO STAY IN SAMARKAND
Other Accommodation Options in Samarkand
WHERE TO STAY IN BUKHARA
Other Accommodation Options in Bukhara
WHERE TO STAY IN KHIVA
Other Accommodation Options in Khiva
WHERE TO STAY IN TASHKENT
Accommodation Options in Tashkent
FOOD IN UZBEKISTAN
WHERE TO EAT IN SAMARKAND
WHERE TO EAT IN BUKHARA
CAFES/TEAHOUSES NOT TO MISS IN BUKHARA
WHERE TO EAT IN KHIVA
WHERE TO EAT IN TASHKENT
WHEN TO VISIT UZBEKISTAN
RELIGION & HOW TO DRESS IN UZBEKISTAN
SAFETY & SOLO TRAVELING IN UZBEKISTAN
OTHER THINGS TO NOTE
CONCLUSION
Read More About Central Asia
Author
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BACK STORY: UZBEKISTAN AND THE SILK ROAD

If you don’t have time to travel the entire length of the Silk Road, Uzbekistan is the perfect week-long glimpse into it. Located in the center of Eurasia, it played a key role back in the days not only in the trade of gold, silk, and spices but also of culture and religion.

Missionaries, scholars, and musicians who passed by the Silk Road hubs of Samarkand, Bukhara, and Khiva brought Islamic art and teachings along with them. Today, you’ll see these three key cities bustling with beautifully ornate madrasas, mosques, and minarets — scenes you’d only expect to see inside a chapter of One Thousand And One Nights.

GETTING TO UZBEKISTAN — BY AIR OR BY CAR

Uzbekistan is one of only two double-landlocked countries in the world (the other one being Liechtenstein. This means that not only is it landlocked, but it’s also surrounded by other landlocked countries. So the most common ways of getting to Uzbekistan are by air or by car.

BY AIR

Flying is the easiest way to reach Uzbekistan. The main international airport is in Tashkent (TAS), but there’s also one in Samarkand (SKD), which is where my partner and I flew into.

Aeroflot and Turkish Airlines are the two main airlines that operate flights to Uzbekistan. You would therefore either have a layover in Moscow or in Istanbul somewhere on your journey. My partner and I took the Aeroflot route from London. The flight was around four hours to Moscow and another four hours from Moscow to Samarkand.

BY CAR

It is definitely possible to do a roadtrip around Central Asia, covering Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, and Tajikistan as well. Taxis and buses are also available to help you cross the borders into Uzbekistan.

There are three main border crossings between Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan in the cities of Gisht Kuprik, Chinaz, and Kungrad. From Kyrgyzstan, the main border crossings are at Gisht Kuprik, Khanabad, and Andijan. In Tajikistan, Dushanbe (its capital) is about 55 km from the border of Uzbekistan in Denau.

Some borders do have opening hours. For example, if you’re planning to enter through Gisht Kuprik, be sure to do so between 7am–9pm (Tashkent time).

ABOUT THE UZBEKISTAN VISA

If you’re a citizen of the European Union or other select countries such as the USA, Canada, India, and Australia (there are many more too), you’re eligible for an e-visa. This means you simply have to fill out a standard online application (without needing a letter of invitation), and you’ll receive your visa to visit Uzbekistan via e-mail within two working days. You can find more information about the e-visas here, including whether you’re eligible for it.

If you’re not eligible for e-visas, you will need a letter of invitation, which isn’t as hard to obtain as it may sound. There are many travel agencies that can do that for you, online. The one my partner used is Global Connect and it cost around $65. He then applied for his visa in person through the embassy and received it within one week. We found the visa procedure to be fairly simple overall and did not encounter any issues at all.

WHAT TO SEE IN UZBEKISTAN — A SAMPLE ITINERARY

While it’s feasible to cover the main attractions of Uzbekistan in one week, my partner and I found that spending 10 days in this country was ideal. This gave us the perfect amount of time to really absorb everything and relax while sightseeing. Below are the main cities to visit, along with their must-see spots.

SAMARKAND

HOW LONG YOU SHOULD STAY: 2-3 DAYS

Founded in the 7th century B.C., Samarkand is one of the oldest cities in Central Asia. Its geographic location in the center of major trade routes attracted a lot of travelers and invaders. It has been captured by both Alexander the Great in 329 BC and Genghis Khan in 1220. In the 14th century, it became the capital of the Timurid Empire.

Through the course of its history, it has been ruled by Persians, Greeks, Turks, Mongols, Chinese, and Russians. Half a dozen religions have found a home here. Today, it is the second largest city in Uzbekistan and part of the UNESCO World Heritage, listed as ‘Samarkand — Crossroads of Cultures.’

MUST-SEE PLACES IN SAMARKAND

Registan – the pearl of the city; a square with three of the world’s oldest madrasas, worth visiting both at day and at night.

Gur-e-Amir – this stunning piece of architecture was the model for the Taj Mahal.
Shah-i-Zinda – an avenue of mausoleums that showcase some of the richest tile work in the Muslim world.
Bibi-Khanym Mosque – the jewel of the Timurid Empire, this was once one of the biggest mosques in the Islamic world.
The Siob Bazaar – the city’s vibrant main market is a great place to get a taste of local food and treats – be sure to try halva (a sweet that resembles fudge).
Ulugh Beg Observatory – it showcases some of the world’s most advanced astronomical studies led by a Timurid ruler.
Note: The above places are all within walking distance of each other, aside from Ulugh Beg Observatory, which may require a taxi. In addition, if you have an extra day in Samarkand, a day trip to Shakhrisabz, one of Central Asia’s most ancient cities, is very much recommended.

Tip: When you visit Registan, make sure to watch a traditional Uzbek concert inside the Sher-Dor Madrasah. Against the backdrop of the gorgeous madrasah walls, you’ll see locals perform in their traditional clothing, showcasing not only their music but also their culture, such as scenes from a Uzbek wedding. The concert starts at 7pm daily, and it’s $5 per person. You can buy tickets right inside the square even right before the concert starts.

BUKHARA

HOW LONG YOU SHOULD STAY: 2-3 DAYS

The city of Bukhara is more than 2,000 years old. Its historic center has been preserved very well for the last two centuries. It therefore gives a great glimpse into a medieval Central Asian Muslim city filled with ancient religious architecture.

MUST-SEE PLACES IN BUKHARA:

Kalon Minaret – Genghis Khan was so impressed by this tower that back in the 13th century, that he ordered it to be spared while his troops destroyed the rest of the city.

Kalon Mosque – this mosque, with a spectacular courtyard, is right next to Kalon Minaret.
Ark Fortress – Bukhara’s oldest structure was the residence of its emirs for centuries .
Chor Minor – the gatehouse of a long-gone madrasah built in 1807, it has four minarets that each represent a different religion.
Abdulaziz-Khan Madrasah – built in 1652, its intricate, colorful tiles are truly impressive.
Bolo Hauz Mosque – known as the 40 Pillar Mosque, its ceiling is held by 20 wooden pillars that reflect elegantly in the pond in front of it.
Lyabi-Hauz Complex – a peaceful yet lively 17th century trading square with music playing in the evenings, and a pond with restaurants around it.
Taki-Telpak Furushon – a colorful domed bazaar with lots of interesting souvenir shops.
Tip: To get a taste of the “real Bukhara,” make sure to book a slot at a Hammam, a traditional steam bath. The Bozori Kord Hammam is one of the oldest in the world (built in the 14th century) and a great way to experience this exotic ancient ritual. Not only would you be discovering the secrets of the Oriental Massage, but you’ll also get a sense of the real way of life in Bukhara.
KHIVA

HOW LONG YOU SHOULD STAY: 1-2 DAYS

Out of all the Silk Road gems in Central Asia, the city of Khiva is perhaps the most intact, remote, and preserved of them all. This medieval town is essentially an open air museum. It has a fortress surrounding its inner city, which is home to dozens of ancient madrasas, mosques, minarets, and clay-colored houses.

MUST-SEE PLACES IN KHIVA:

Itchan Kala – the inner town of Khiva, in which most of the city’s attractions reside. It gets crowded with tourists during the day, but walking around at dawn or dusk makes for a very peaceful and unique experience.

Tash Hauli – a palace inside the Itchan Kala with extravagant interior decorations, blue ceramic tiles, more than 150 rooms, and 9 courtyards.
Juma Mosque – this unique mosque has 218 wooden columns supporting its roof.
Kuhna Ark – a fortress that used to be the residence of Khiva’s rulers.
Watchtower – accessible through the Kuhna Ark, this is a really good spot to watch sunset with a gorgeous view of the city.
Isfandiyar Palace – a 10-minute walk outside the west gate, it’s home to gold-embroidered ceilings and lavish chandeliers.
Kalta Minor Minaret – a turquoise-tiled minaret begun in 1851 by Mohammed Amin Khan, who aspired for it to be 80m tall. Unfortunately, he dropped dead in 1855, leaving the structure unfinished at 29m, but still looking mesmerizing.
Islom Hoja Minaret – standing 57m tall, it has the resemblance of a lighthouse, and you can climb it for fine views over the city.
Tip #1: Do not miss out on Khiva. Due to its remoteness and small size, Khiva is often overlooked and people tend to skip it if their schedule is tight. If your time in Uzbekistan is limited, cut your visit in Bukhara or Tashkent shorter by a day so that you’d have time to see Khiva. Because of how well it’s been preserved, this city truly stands out with its ancient and authentic vibe. Being there felt like walking inside a film set. The clay-colored architecture makes this town resemble a real life sand castle city — something truly unique and hard to find anywhere else in the world.

Tip #2: Get a personal guide inside Itchan Kala. There are many places in Khiva that are quite hard to find on your own. Lavish, colorful courtyards tend to be hidden behind small doors you’d never think to walk through because, from the outside, they don’t appear to lead to anywhere special. Getting a guide costs around $30 for a 3 hour tour (you pay a total of $30 even if you’re traveling in pairs), and you can request this service inside the ticket office right at the entrance of Itchan Kala.

TASHKENT

HOW LONG YOU SHOULD STAY: 1-2 DAYS

Being the capital of Uzbekistan with the largest international airport in the country, you are most likely to fly into and out of Tashkent. Wandering around the city, you’ll find part of it cluttered with modern buildings; another part adorned with Soviet-style architecture, and yet another part that’s more traditionally Uzbek with mud-walled houses, crowded bazaars, and traditionally clad farmers hard at work.

MUST-SEE PLACES IN TASHKENT:

The metro stations – if you’ve seen or heard about the very artistic and well-decorated metro stations in Moscow, you’ll find something very similar in Tashkent. The metro stations there were built in the former USSR and are among the most ornate in the world.

Minor Mosque – built in 2013, it’s one of the newer monuments of the city and is covered in white marbles.
Chorsu Bazaar – being the biggest farmers market in town, it’s the perfect place to find colorful mountains of spices, sweets, souvenirs, and the freshest fruits around.
Hazrat Imam Complex – a religious center with a madrasah, mausoleum, and Islamic Institute, where future preachers are taught.
Amir Timur Museum & Square – a museum about the Timurid empire sitting inside a square that also houses the very interesting architecture of Uzbekistan Hotel.

GETTING AROUND UZBEKISTAN

It’s very easy to navigate Uzbekistan on your own, and you can do so via trains, flights, or taxis. My partner and I used a mixture of them all.

BY TRAIN

There are multiple daily trains connecting Samarkand, Bukhara, and Tashkent. Many of them are high-speed, meaning a journey between Samarkand and Tashkent or Samarkand and Bukhara would only take 1-2 hours.

My partner and I took the Afrosiyob high-speed rail and it was a very comfortable experience. The trains were punctual, clean, and equipped with AC — a lifesaver during the summer months. Tickets cost $7 if you buy them at the train stations and around $25 if you reserve online in advance.

Note: There are no websites from which you can directly buy these train tickets. If you’d like to reserve them in advance, the only way is to go through Uzbek travel agencies, which will buy and email them to you.

We used Global Connect to reserve ours as it was the most affordable option we found, and it was a smooth and pleasant experience. As I mentioned before though, it is much cheaper and less of a hassle to buy the tickets in person at the station.

BY AIR

There are airports in Tashkent, Samarkand, Bukhara, and Urgench (which is about a 30-minute drive from Khiva). Flights between these cities typically range from $25 – $50 one way. Because trains are much more affordable and not that different in their length of the journey, it’s almost illogical to fly between Tashkent, Bukhara, and Samarkand.

Flying does become a convenient option, however, when going to Khiva. This ancient town is quite remote and a bit harder to reach. A flight from Tashkent to Urgench is the fastest way to get there and it takes about 1.5 hours, costing $50 one way.

BY TAXI

Taking a taxi between the main cities is not recommended unless you’re going to Khiva. Aside from flying into Urgench, a very common way of reaching this remote town is via a private or shared taxi from Bukhara.

The journey is around 7 hours (with breaks in between) and costs $50 for a private ride and $20 for a shared ride. An advantage of choosing to go to Khiva by car (rather than by air) is that you can take a little detour along the road trip to visit some ancient fortresses, such as the one in Tuprakkala. It will prolong your trip by two hours and cost an extra $10, but getting to explore exotic ruins in the middle of a desert is not an experience you get every day.

Within Uzbekistan cities, taxis are very cheap. They usually cost $1.25 for a 10-15 minute ride. With that said, Samarkand, Bukhara, and Khiva are walkable cities for the most part. So you’d only need taxis when going to the train station/airport, or when visiting a few remote attractions away from the historic centers.