Article · January 021 citations reads 411 authors: Some of the authors of this publication are also working on these related projects

---

See discussions, stats, and author profiles for this publication at: 
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/348480703
EVOLUTION OF TRANSFORMING CONSTRUCTIONS IN CLOTHING
Article
· January 2021
CITATIONS
0
READS
411
2 authors:
Some of the authors of this publication are also working on these related projects:
Исследование
комфорта
человека
 
View project
Безопасность
жизнеобеспечения
 
View project
Салих
 
Шукурович
 
Ташпулатов
Tashkent Institute of Textile and Light Industry, Tashkent, Uzbekistan
153
PUBLICATIONS
61
CITATIONS
SEE PROFILE
Irina Cherunova
Don State Technical University
106
PUBLICATIONS
79
CITATIONS
SEE PROFILE
All content following this page was uploaded by 
Салих
 
Шукурович
 
Ташпулатов
on 14 January 2021.
The user has requested enhancement of the downloaded file.

---

ISSN 2181-8622
MINISTRY OF HIGHER AND SECONDARY SPECIAL 
EDUCATION REPUBLIC OF UZBEKISTAN 
SCIENTIFIC AND TECHNICAL JOURNAL 
OF NAMANGAN INSTITUTE OF ENGINEERING AND 
TECHNOLOGY 
-
-
-
-
The journal is included in the list of scientific publications recommended by the 
Higher Attestation Commission under the Cabinet of Ministers of the Republic of 
Uzbekistan for publication of the main scientific results of dissertations in technical 
sciences in 2019 (Technical Sciences - 
33.

---

www.nammti.uz
Scientific and technical journal of NamIET
ISSN 2181-8622
32 
VOL 5 Issue (4) 2020 
UDK 677.021.125 
EVOLUTION OF TRANSFORMING CONSTRUCTIONS IN CLOTHING 
Tashpulatov Salihx Shukurovich 
Professor of Tashkent Institute of Textile and Light Industry
Email: 
[e-mail]
, 
tel:[phone]
Muminova Umida Tokhtasinovna 
Associate of Tashkent Institute of Textile and Light Industry 
Email: 
[e-mail]
, 
tel:[phone]
Cherunova Irina Viktorovna 
Professor of Institute of Service Sector and Entrepreneurship (branch) DSTU (Russia) 
Sharipova Saodat Islamovna 
Senior lecturer of Bukhara Engineering Technological Institute 
Email: 
[e-mail]
, 
tel:[phone]
Muhiddinova Umida Farxadovna 
Magisrt of Professor of Tashkent Institute of Textile and Light Industry 
Abstract:
Objective.
Transformable clothing has always been fashionable and innovative, 
analyzing the evolution of transformable designs in a suit. For many centuries, certain 
methods of constructive, technological and compositional solutions for transformable 
clothing and its elements have been developed. 
Methods.
The analysis of the information obtained as a result of the study of literary 
sources, archival and museum materials, gives an idea of the variety of types of 
transformation used in clothing. 
Results.
The analysis allows you to make a classification of techniques and methods for 
transforming a suit, which is an important part of the initial information for the design of 
modern transformable products for various purposes. 
Conclusion.
Transformable clothing developed in parallel with the evolution of 
humanity. With the development of technology, the imagination of designers gives numerous 
fruits of transformable clothing and its elements. Studying the history of clothing, you can find 
numerous examples of constructive and technological methods for transforming clothing, 
which modern designers are happy to use and find their admirers-consumers. 
Keywords:
costume transformation, transformation methods, costume evolution, 
clothes cut. 
Introduction.
In the initial period of development of prototypes of clothing, which lasted until the 
millennium BC, when only some materials were used (animal skins, bark of trees, plants and 
plants) and the main function of clothing was protective, the first methods of its modification 
were already formed. For example, various methods of putting on the skins: fastening on the 
shoulder, threading the head through a hole in the middle of the skin, wrapping around the 

---

www.nammti.uz
Scientific and technical journal of NamIET
ISSN 2181-8622
33 
VOL 5 Issue (4) 2020 
body, etc. The first forms of shoes were just as primitive: a piece of leather wrapped around 
the leg and fastened in several places. 
The first stage in the formation of transformable clothing is associated with the 
development of the technique of weaving, knitting, weaving, such properties of textile 
materials as the ability to bend, wrinkle, drape, knitted materials - stretch and shape are 
widely used. The clothing of the peoples of the ancient world was characterized by wrapping 
the body with a specially woven or knitted piece of fabric, that is, upholstery. Clothing, which 
is a whole piece of fabric of various shapes (rectangle, ellipse), adapted to changes in weather, 
anthropometry, the situation of use, social status of the wearer, etc. Thus, the same product 
could change size, shape, demonstrating its protective and social functions. 
The draped clothes of the ancient Greeks are widely known - chiton, himation and 
chlamyda (Pic. 1), as well as the cloak-teben among the Etruscans, table and palla, common 
in Ancient Rome, the clothes of Ancient India, which have survived almost unchanged to our 
days[1-5]. 
Formed in antiquity, the numerous and complex techniques of draping demanded great 
art. In clothing, auxiliary fixing elements were often used: brooches, hairpins, buckles, 
ribbons, laces, braid, belts, straps, etc., which became the prototypes of modern fastening 
means and accessories.
The advent of tailored clothing - clothing with detachable parts - marked the next period 
in the development of transformation. For a long time, sleeves, collars, left and right parts of 
the legs, codpiece, voluminous hip pants existed as separate items of clothing that were 
attached to each other or on the body (Fig. 2). It is believed that the division of clothing into 
parts was borrowed by tailors from the inventors of knightly armor, although round collar 
necklaces were used in ancient Egypt. 
1
2

---

www.nammti.uz
Scientific and technical journal of NamIET
ISSN 2181-8622
34 
VOL 5 Issue (4) 2020 
3
Figure.1. Draped clothing of the ancient Greeks - 1-chiton, 2- chlamyda, 3-himation 
Methods.
The idea of a detachable collar has survived to this day and was used in clothing of the 
late Middle Ages (collar-cutter), the Renaissance (the collar of Maria de Medici and the 
Count), flat-lying wide collars decorated with lace in the European costume of the 17th 
century. The footwear of the ancient Russian peoples, in fact, was a complex product. In 
addition to the actual shoes, they also wore inner shoes, not intended for independent wearing 
outside the home (soft leather, felt and linen boots of all kinds of designs, leather chuvyaki - 
socks). In the cold season, greaves, knee pads and legguards were widely used to protect the 
leg from dirt, mechanical damage and cold. At this time, handkerchiefs tied in a knot were 
often used as bags. In Russia in the 18th century. a collar embroidered with pearls and stones, 
called obnizya, was fastened to zipuns and shirts. There were many varieties of embankments, 
they were fastened as needed to appear more elegant or simpler. They differed in size, color 
and decoration. 
Over the centuries, various methods of regulating the volume and shape of clothing or 
its individual parts have been born and improved. Open or closed cuts, tying, lacing played an 
important role in the constructive organization of the costume. 
The most widespread was tying clothes: girdling tables with a bandage (among the 
Romans), wide sleeves with a ribbon intertwined on the chest (in China), adjusting the length 
of pants with garters at the knees (in the Arab East), the width of trousers at the level 
Various methods of putting on and wearing clothes were known even among the 
Scythians. There are various ways of wearing a band with a mantle in the early Middle Ages, 
hats - "three-handed", tying a croat tie. With the advent of sewn-in sleeves, different sleeves 
are applied to the same suit. 
In the 18th century. an example of a variant solution of a suit is a short Cossack cloak, a 
riders' dress - a wild boar, etc. A cloak - a Cossack with the help of numerous fasteners along 
the side seams and the seams of the sleeves (up to 150 buttons and loops) could be turned into 
clothes with long and wide sleeves or short cape. Having fastened the back to the side of the 

---

www.nammti.uz
Scientific and technical journal of NamIET
ISSN 2181-8622
35 
VOL 5 Issue (4) 2020 
sleeve, it was possible to leave slits in the front for free movement of the arms. Boar sleeves, 
sewn into the armhole only in the upper part, and could either be put on the hands or thrown 
back, fastening on the back. 
Figure.2. Male costume, mid-17th century 
The design of a transformable underskirt in a European women's suit of the 19th century 
is known, which, if necessary, could serve as a frame for various silhouettes of overskirts. 
Already in the most distant times, attempts were made to create clothes with a variable 
number of layers within one product, each of which played its own special role. For example, 
the shaping frame of men's melon-shaped short pants (made of horsehair, sawdust), cotton 
pads for flattening the shape of the breast in a women's suit, for the formation of a bulge in the 
lower part of the torso - panseron (in men's Spanish costume of the 15th century), as well as 
shoulder pads and bolsters on the sleeves, lower framed pannier skirts, figs, polison (18th 
century), insulation (fur, down, additional layers of other woven materials (in a traditional 
Japanese winter kimono), decorative lining, etc. (Pic. 3)[9]. 
Figure.3. Male costume, early 18th century 

---

www.nammti.uz
Scientific and technical journal of NamIET
ISSN 2181-8622
36 
VOL 5 Issue (4) 2020 
With the advent of film materials, gluing and welding technologies, it became possible 
to create clothes with varying volumes. The ability of fabrics to roll up was noticed long ago 
and was often used as a decorative technique in the manufacture of clothing (tucking the 
upper skirts of women's dresses, fixing rolled sleeves in men's, women's and children's suits 
of the 19th - 20th centuries). 
Results.
For the first time, clothes - a transformer appeared at the beginning of the 20th century 
in the USSR. With the advent of Soviet power, the question arose about fashion for the 
working people - after all, completely different aesthetic demands appeared. A working 
woman is unlikely to be able to leave the house in multi-layered and low-function clothes. At 
that time, fashion designer Nadezhda Lamanova, a friend of the famous sculptor Vera 
Mukhina, was actively involved in the development of a fundamentally new aesthetics and 
practical component of clothing. The result of their joint search for the necessary style, 
combining practicality and meeting the new proletarian aesthetics, was the release in 1925 of 
Mukhina took an active part. The public was offered a tracksuit, the shorts of which turned 
into a skirt, and a 3-in-1 suit (for work, walking and at home)[10]. In conditions of total 
deficit, this idea came in handy. And in Europe, around the same time, women began to fight 
for their independence and the ability to wear men's clothing. It was not the structure itself 
that underwent transformations, but the utilitarian function of objects overturned. For 
example, a surrealist in the fashion world, Elsa Schiaparelli invented pants that resembled a 
skirt, a hat in the shape of a shoe. 
A real boom in clothing - transformers occurred in the 1960s and 70s. In 1968, the 
movie "The Diamond Arm" was released, which featured trousers that turned into shorts and a 
jacket that turned into a jacket. It is interesting to know that in 2017 the Y-project brand 
introduced a similar version of jeans, which were shortened to shorts. True, the option may 
seem rather vulgar. 
And in May, the first multifunctional dress - transformer, will be 42 years old, which 
appeared on the London catwalk in 1976. At that time, there was no particular excitement in 
the cozy workshop, since the transformer dress was created not by a professional in the field 
of cutting, sewing and clothing design, but by a rather authoritative special correspondent, 
fashion critic Lydia Sylvester. It was the favorite profession of the pen shark in the fashion 
industry that constantly travels the world that made Lydia Sylvester, tired of heavy luggage, 
come up with a dress - a transformer - one outfit that is not picky about weather and climate 
changes for all occasions. In this way, Lydia Sylvester, wandering the planet with one 
handbag and a cosmetic bag, created the illusion of a luxurious wardrobe of various feminine 
cocktail dresses, comfortable suits in casual-style (a combination of youth and sports trends in 
clothing), etc. Inspired by the idea, the young girl organized a show of 100 unique models. 
And only at the end of the fashion show, the designer sensationally announced that all the 
female models demonstrated one dress in a hundred variations. The audience was shocked, all 
100 models were variations of only one dress. This is how the irreplaceable transformer dress, 
otherwise called "Infinitidress", entered our wardrobes. 
Discussions.
At the end of the 20th and the beginning of the 21st century, more and more leading 
designers of the world were engaged in the development of dresses - transformer. 
Transforming multifunctional izleiya already today belong to fashionable modern 
clothes of high demand. Both designers and constructors are guided by the creation of 
multifunctional things. In modern wardrobe-oriented clothing design, it consists of clothing 

---

www.nammti.uz
Scientific and technical journal of NamIET
ISSN 2181-8622
37 
VOL 5 Issue (4) 2020 
design that is wardrobe-oriented, consisting of a minimum number of multifunctional 
garments. 
The modern process of using clothing creates conditions that allow experimentation, i.e. 
always create a new individual image. The ability to experiment, modify, and transform, 
various items or elements of clothing, allows the consumer to get an almost unlimited 
opportunity to model many options for a fashionable suit, and present it in various style 
solutions. This goal is set for modern designers. To achieve this goal, numerous design 
elements are used that are present in the clothes. 
Designer Malcolm Harris studied a survey of women on social media for 18 months. 
What should be the ideal transformer dress, the most popular colors, what material is best to 
use. This is how the OneDress dress was created. Its cut consists of two stitched circles. The 
dress has holes for arms, head, legs, there are 4 slots for threading the belt-ribbon, which is 
attached to this dress. 
Donna Karan has created several models of transformer dresses, as well as cardigans in 
bright colors. The transformer dress from the Emami trademark is very popular. This dress 
won the love of the female population by the fact that one model has the largest spectrum for 
the imagination in the field of reincarnation. This is not only an evening dress, but also 
trousers, a skirt, a tunic and many other options. 
In 2013, British designer Hussein Chalayan presented his collection of transforming 
dresses at Paris Fashion Week, and it made a lasting impression on the worldly public. With a 
light and confident movement of the hand, the models famously turned one outfit into a 
completely different one, not similar to the previous one in either color or style[12]. 
The Finnish brand Jolier has created two models of Emma & Coco transforming 
dresses, which change their appearance using buttons[14]. In the Emma model, the look of the 
hem and sleeves changes. In the Coco model, the shape and length of the hem and sleeves 
change. 
For brides, a wide selection of transforming dresses is presented, where the most 
popular technique is a detachable skirt. The stores have a huge selection of reversible dresses, 
coats and jackets. 
In addition to dresses, shoes undergo transformations. For example, the designers of the 
fashion house "Fendi" made it so that their shoes can be worn all year round. One has only to 
attach special leggings to them from above. And designer Daniela Bekerman has created a 
whole collection of transforming shoes. Each pair is equipped with five interchangeable heels, 
allowing you to get five pairs of shoes: with high heels, ballet flats, with straps, with lacing. 
Now let's list some rather dubious options for universal things. Gloves-transformers 
from "Dolce & Gabbana" are unlikely to be to everyone's taste. Azumi & David has created a 
bag that can be worn like a hat[15-20]. 
Conclusion.
Urbanization and technological progress have firmly introduced a lot of completeness 
into our life. Based on the combinations of elements of one modifiable ensemble, you can 
create the most diverse, multivariate, compact models. Transforming multifunctional products 
today belong to fashionable modern clothes of high demand. The offered multifunctional 
garments, the transformations of which take place with a minimum expenditure of time, are 
able to satisfy the needs of a modern person living an active dynamic life, and in addition, 
they save resources, which is extremely important from the point of view of the 
environmental problems facing society. 

---

www.nammti.uz
Scientific and technical journal of NamIET
ISSN 2181-8622
38 
VOL 5 Issue (4) 2020 
REFERENCES 
1. Konopaltseva N.M., Rogov P.I., Kryukova N.A. Design and manufacturing 
technology of clothing from various materials: In 2 hours - Part 1. Design of clothing: 
textbook for universities / M .: Academy, 2007. - 256 p. 
2. Semkin V.V. Morphological transformation as a means of solving artistic and design 
problems: dis. ... Cand. art history / M., 1983. 183s. 
3. Ermilova V.V., Ermilova D.Yu. Modeling and decoration of clothes, study guide / M 
.: Mastery; Publishing Center "Academy", Higher School, 2001. - 184 p. 
4. Encyclopedia of fashion and clothing. Transforming clothing [Electronic resource]. // 
URL: http: // fashion. academic.ru 
5. Multiwear is all about multifunctional clothing. [Electronic resource]. // URL: http: // 
Multiwear. com. ua / part 4 
6. Gorokhova A.I., Kostyleva V.V. Transformation as a tool for developing a collection 
of shoes, clothing and accessories / Design and technology. - 2012. - No. 30. - from. 36-45. 
7.Zvyagintsev S.B. Development of methods for the integrated design of sets of 
interchangeable and transformable clothing items: Abstract dissertation. Cand. tech. sciences. 
M., 1999 .-- 27 p. 
8. Akilova Z.T. and others. Modeling clothes based on the principle of transformation. 
M.:. Light industry and consumer services, 1992. - 196 p. 
9. Zakharzhevskaya R.V. "The history of costume: From antiquity to the present - 3rd 
ed.add.- M .: RIPOL classic, 2005.-288 p. 
10. 
https://cyberleninka.ru/article/n/sovremennye-podhody-k-proektirovaniyu-
transformiruemoy-odezhdy/viewer.
UDK 677.025 
RESEARCH OF NEW STRUCTURES OF TWO-LAYER KNITWEAR 
Allaniyazov Gulom Sherniyazovich 
Assistant of Nukus State University 
E-mail:
[e-mail]
, tel: [phone]
Kholikov Kurbonali Madaminovich 
Professor of Namangan Istitute of Engineering and Technology 
Tel: [phone]
Gulyayeva Gulfiya Harisovna 
Associate professor, PhD of Tashkent Institute of Textile and Light Industry 
E-mail:
[e-mail]
, tel: [phone]
Musayev Nuriddin Muhitdinovich 
doctoral student of Tashkent Institute of Textile and Light Industry 
E-mail:
[e-mail]
, tel: [phone]
Mukimov Mirabzal Mirayubovich 
Professor of Tashkent Institute of Textile and Light Industry 
Tel: [phone]
Abstract: 
Objective.
The most promising direction in creating a new assortment of knitted 
fabrics is the combination of known stitches and their elements in various ways. In two-layer 

---

www.nammti.uz
Scientific and technical journal of NamIET
ISSN 2181-8622
247 
VOL 5 Issue (4) 2020 
CONTENTS
PRIMARY PROCESSING OF COTTON, TEXTILE AND
LIGHT INDUSTRY 
R.X.Maksudov, A.Dj.Djurayev, SH.SH.Shukhratov, I.D.Yakubov. 
Development of 
effective design and substantiation of parameters of the cotton cleaner from large 
little...........................................................................................................................................
3 
N.SH.Kholikova. 
Prospects for the development of the leather shoe industry.........................
11 
U.G.Bakhromov. 
Fergana valley traditional national costumes and religious-divine 
imagery......................................................................................................................................
15 
N.SH.Kholikova, G.Z.Fatullaeva. 
O
uter clothing made of leather and its physical and 
mechanical properties............................................................................................................... 
22 
N.SH.Kholikova,
M.B.Toshpulotova.
Development of market trends of fur and fur 
products..................................................................................................................................... 
27 
S.SH.Tashpulatov, U.T.Muminova, I.V.Cherunova, S.I.Sharipova, U.F.Muhiddinova.
Evolution of transforming constructions in clothing................................................................
32 
G.SH.Allaniyazov, K.M.Kholikov, G.H.Gulyayeva, N.M.Musayev, M.M.Mukimov. 
Research of new structures of two-layer knitwear
38 
G.SH.Allaniyazov, K.M.Kholikov, G.H.Gulyayeva, N.M.Musayev, M.M.Mukimov.
Study 
of technological parameters and material consumption of two-layer knitted fabric
44 
SH.SH.Khalikov, O.SH.Sarimsakov, D.M.Kurbanov. 
Analysis of drying technology in 
primary processing of cotton
51 
SH.X.Mamadaliyeva. 
Comparative study of quality indicators of long-fiber cotton fibers 
and their impact on fire value (on the example of Uzbekistan and the United States)
56 
SH.X.Mamadaliyeva. 
Classification of long-field cotton fiber and study of requirements 
for quality indicators
61 
GROWING, STORAGE, PROCESSING OF AGRICULTURAL PRODUCTS AND FOOD 
TECHNOLOGIES
X oshimov, U.Y.Raximov, S.A.Bozorov, N.X.
shimova.
Technology of using pea 
component for herodietic nutrition development......................................................................
67 
M.F.Meliboyev, SH.M.Mamatov, O.K.Ergashev.
Development of vacuum-sublimation 
drying technology using highly efficient combination methods of fruit drying.......................
73 
U.G.Goyipov, A.A.Tursunov, SH.Akbarov, U.N.Bayboboev. 
C
alculation of elevator 
parameters for potato harvesters with shaking devices.............................................................
78 
S.Kh.Toshboyeva. 
Prospects for use of extracts from natural floras of uzbekistan in the 
food industry
84 
A.X.Abdurakhimov, 
D.J.Jumaeva, 
X.A.Abdurakhimov, 
N.T.Raxmatullaeva, 
I.D.Eshmetov. 
Technology for purification of water-alcoholic solutions with wood-based 
adsorbents
89 
D.R.Norchaev, R.Norchaev, SH.Kuziev. 
The effect of applying a combined digging body 
to the carrot digger
97 
D.A.Saribayeva, M.S.Zokirova. 
Study of processes for receiving biological active 
substances from topinambur
102 
View publication stats
View publication stats