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It may seem odd, then, to be writing in such length in praise of a dish one does not
particularly like. But culinary memories are determined not so much by whether we
found a food tasty, but by the events, people, and atmospheres of which the food
serves as a reminder. In my mind, the very making of the salade has always been
associated with the joyful bustle that accompanied the celebrations for which the
dish was prepared: the unfolding of the dinner table to its full length, the borrowing
of chairs from neighbors, the starched white tablecloths, simmering crystal
wineglasses, polished silverware, white napkins, delicate porcelain plates of three
different sizes stacked one on top of another, the aroma floating from the kitchen all
through the apartment, my father taking me on special shopping errands, the
wonderful dilemma of “what to wear?” and myriad other pleasant deviations from
the monotony of everyday existence. Though simple in theory, the preparation of
the salade Olivier was a formidable undertaking which occupied half the morning
and all but one of the stove burners. At first it was my responsibility to peel the
boiled potatoes == the one task which did not require the use of a knife or other
utensil, and one which I performed lovingly, albeit inefficiently. As I sat at the
kitchen table, my five-year-old fingers covered in several layers of potato skin, my
mother and I would lead heart-to-heart discussions, whose topics I no longer
remember, but of which I never tired.
Eventually, my mother introduced me to the Dicing of the Potatoes, and then to the
Dicing of the Bologna, the Dicing of the Pickles, the Shelling of the Eggs and the
Stirring in of the Mayonnaise as well. But there was one stage of the process I found
especially mesmerizing. It was the Dicing of the Eggs, carried out one hard-boiled
egg at a time with the help of an egg-cutter. Nothing was more pleasing to the eye
than the sight of those seven wire-like blades, arranged like prison bars, slicing
through the smooth, soft ellipsoid.
Today, we still make the salade Olivier on some formal occasions, and, as before, I
sometimes participate. And every time I see the eggslicer or smell the pickles, I am
reminded of our Kiev apartment, of those much-anticipated birthday parties, of the
joy I felt as I helped my mother cook: of all the things which made my childhood a
happy one.
ANALYSIS
This essay seeks to introduce us to the author via a description of the author’s
childhood conditions and family experiences as well as experiences from the
author’s cultural heritage. The salade Olivier, a delicacy in both Ukranian and
Russian diets, serves as the central organizational motif for this description.
The essay’s power comes from its amazing descriptive qualities. The reader is given
a vivid and detailed picture of both the salade and much of the author’s childhood.
The essay also entices the reader by deliberately omitting a description of the
salade’s cultural origins until the very end of the text. This technique forces the
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