25
The popularization of Turkey red color in Europeduring the 18
th
century triggered
globaldemand for madder root cultivation.
3
The complicated process of preparation of the turkey
red color, with multiple steps of dyeing and drying, made the dyeing commodity expensive in the
world market. However,French scientists discovered the secret of Turkey red color, the multiple
layers of dyeing process of cotton fabric with madder root alizarin in 1770s.
4
Since then, local
production of Turkey red color continued in Europe and became quite popular in the booming
textile industry. The popularization of dark red color increased worldwide demand of madder
root production, and starting from the early 19
th
century, madder production became a lucrative
cash crop.
The Russian textile industry development came later than the one in Europe but the scale
of Russian imports of madder was huge. Starting from the early 19
th
century, Russian madder
imports increased 5 times making it 166,000
poods in 1840.
5
In the 1850s, Russia became one of
the biggest world madder importers.
6
The 19
th
century Russian textile and leather industry boom
demanded more dyeing product and almost 90% of its dye products came through European
ports. However, in order to decrease the dependency to world market, Russian authorities tried to
localize the madder cultivation. Initially, the localization of madder cultivation started in the
Caucasus and expanded into southern Russian imperial territories.
7
Madderwas knownin CentralAsialong before than its global popularization as a primary
source of Turkey red color in late 18
th
century. According to Al-Beruniy, madder root was
known in Central Asia, especially in Balkh since the 10
th
century. The best madder root came
from Caucasus and Iranian territoriesand used formaking ink for writing.
8
In his memoirs, Babur
informs us that madder was widely produced in present-day Afghanistanand exported to India.
9
Furthermore, madder was also an important component of traditional medicine in Central Asia.
Colors extracted from madder root were very diverse and it provided bright yellow, orange,
orange red, red and bright red colors depending on process of extraction. Central Asian ikats and
Turkmen rugs were popular with their unique pattern and color.
As global demand for madder root increased, local madder cultivation for the purpose of
export and cash crop flourished around the Caspian territories including Derbent. Khivan
merchants who were trading in the Caspian Region must have realized the trade potential of the
product immediately. The madder was introduced as an important cash crop and its cultivation
started around the 1810s in Khiva. According to NikolayMurav‘ev, the Russian military envoy to
Khiva in 1819,madder growing started recently in Khiva. He described it as ―a quite new article
to the Khivans.‖
10
He also mentioned that Khivan merchants already began exporting the
3
John Stenhouse and Charles Groves,
Dyeing and Calico printing(Manchester: Palmer and Howe, 1878), 65
4
Robert Chenciner,
Madder Red A History of Luxury and trade. (Richmond: Curzon Press,2000), 187;Johan Schot,
―Technology in Decline: A Search for Useful Concepts, The British Journal for the History of Science,‖
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