What do you know about textile fibers?

Static Electricity

Static electricity is an electric charge made from friction (rubbing). I am sure you have all heard of the dreaded wintertime static cling. The one where a pair of underwear is stuck inside your clothes only to fall out at the most inopportune time in front of your co-workers. Static cling is especially common during the winter because the winter months tend to be much drier, and electric charges do well in dry environments.
There are special tropic fibers that are made to resist static build-up. These types of textile fibers are crucial to certain jobs where static shocks could be dangerous like hospitals, computers, and near highly flammable chemicals.

Strength

Strength is just what it sounds like. How much force will break a fiber or fabric? Nylon is one of the strongest commodity fibers available, while acetate is extremely weak. Acetate is very cheap and often used as a cost-saving alternative to line the inside of jackets. This is why in some fast fashion jackets the line starts to fray and rip from just a little bit of wear.

Thermoplastic

Thermoplastic describes how well a fiber can withstand exposure to heat. This is extremely important when we print, dye, and finish fabrics, because during these processes a lot of heat is necessary.
A thermoplastic fiber will become soft from heat exposure. This allows for finishes such as heat setting, permanent press, and anti-wrinkle. In theory, the fiber is melted into place in permanent press garments.

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Textile fibers and their characteristics

Textile fibers are natural or synthetic structures that can be spun into yarn and woven, knitted, or bonded into fabric. Because the inherent characteristics of fibers directly relate to the finished fabric’s performance and the maintenance required, understanding fibers and yarns will in turn help you to understand how to incorporate fabrics into your interior scheme.

Natural Fibers
Occurring in nature; which are of animal, vegetable/plant, or mineral origin.
SILK
Animal origin; the silkworm creates its cocoon from very long silk fibers which are harvested from mulberry trees.

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  Silk is naturally fine in texture and takes colour beautifully. Unrivalled in splendour and smoothness, silk is regarded as the most exclusive of all natural fibers.
  
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  The greatest disadvantage in silk furnishings is their sensitivity to direct and reflected UV light, therefore it should not be used in direct sunlight or even bright light.
  
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  Silk is an absorbent fiber, with potential to move in humid environments.
  
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  Silk is a relatively strong fiber and can withstand a certain amount of abrasion, particularly when used in conjunction with a backing fabric.
  

COTTON
Plant origin; derived from the cellulose fibers surrounding the seeds of the cotton plant.

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  Cotton has good natural durability even stronger when wet.
  
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  Can be affected by mildew, however, a mildew resistant finish can be applied.
  
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  Generally has reasonable UV resistance but should be protected with a quality lining when used as a drapery and protected from direct sunlight when used as an upholstery. Cotton’s UV resistance can be greatly reduced in acidic polluted conditions.
  
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  It is an absorbent fibre which means it can move with changing humidity levels.
  
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  Cotton may shrink with laundering but this can be reduced through a finishing process known as sanforising.
  

LINEN
Plant origin; derived from the cellulose fibers growing inside the stalks of the flax plant.

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  Linen is regarded as a luxury fiber because of its lustre and texture.
  
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  As with cotton, linen is vulnerable to acidic pollution and can be affected by mildew, causing the fiber to deteriorate over time.
  
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  Considered to be the strongest natural fiber, when constructed for upholstery it is very durable, particularly when blended with up to 10% nylon.
  
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  It is an absorbent fiber which means it can move with changing humidity levels.
  
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  Linen is moderately UV resistant and should be protected by a quality lining when used as a drapery, and protected from direct sunlight when used as an upholstery.
  

Viscose/Rayon
Plant origin; Viscose/rayon is a transparent fiber made of processed cellulose. Cellulose fibers from wood or cotton are dissolved in alkali to make a solution called viscose, which is then extruded through a nozzle or spinneret into an acid bath to reconvert the viscose into cellulose. The term ‘viscose’ is widely used in Europe, whilst ‘rayon’ is American terminology.

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  The soft handle and beautiful lustre provides a luxury finish, and viscose can be adapted from fine to heavy fibers to meet requirements.
  
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  Can be affected by mildew.
  
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  A very absorbent fiber, it will move with changing humidity levels. Often movement in the fabric is apparent when viscose is used as the warp yarn, but when blended with stable fibers this issue is minimised.
  
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  Viscose is not regarded as a UV resistant fiber and should always be lined when used as drapery and protected from direct sunlight when used as an upholstery.
  

WOOL
Animal origin; a natural animal fiber made from sheep fleece.

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  Wool has regained popularity in interiors with growing demand for quality natural products.
  
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  Pure wool compositions are not considered to be suitable for curtains, unless protected from direct sunlight due to sensitivity to UV light, which can make wool brittle and weak. Blending wool with synthetic fibers can reduce this sensitivity.
  
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  The crimp and fine molecular structure of this fiber ensures woollen textiles are elastic, allowing the yarn to stretch when pulled and helping it return to its original form. When used in tightly woven constructions wool can be very durable.
  
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  Cloth moth larvae, bacteria, and mildew can deteriorate and weaken the fiber over time.
  
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  Wool enjoys the natural benefits of being inherently flame retardant, dirt repellent, anti-static and temperature regulating.
  

Synthetic Fibers

ACRYLIC

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  Acrylic fibers can be manufactured and woven for a specific use, from fine sheers to heavy upholsteries, with a very good drape and handle.
  
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  Durability and abrasion resistance is good when produced for upholstery application, but it can be susceptible to pilling.
  
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  Excellent UV resistance. Most gradual colour change can be attributed to varying qualities in the dyestuffs used during production, rather than to the fiber itself.
  
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  Generally not affected by mildew or acidic pollution.
  
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  Acrylics are strong and stable, non-absorbent fibers.
  

NYLON

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  Nylon can be manufactured and woven for specific use, from fine sheers to heavy upholsteries.
  
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  The fiber is generally not affected by mildew.
  
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  Long exposure to UV light will affect nylon and weaken the yarn over time.
  
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  A very strong and stable fiber that is often blended with other fibers to improve durability for upholstery application.
  

POLYESTER

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  Polyester fibers can be manufactured and woven for a specific use, from fine sheers to heavy upholsteries, with a very good drape and handle.
  
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  Durability, abrasion resistance, and UV light resistance is generally very good.
  
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  A non-absorbent fiber, it will move very little in humid conditions.
  
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  Not affected by acidic pollution or mildew.
  
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  A strong and stable fiber.
  
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  Wrinkle resistance with very good recovery.
  

POLYPROPYLENE / OLEFIN / POLYOLEFIN

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  A synthetic yarn from the polyolefin family which is a by-product of the petrochemical industry. Olefin, polyolefin and polypropylene share the same performance characteristics and are generally used to manufacture outdoor textiles.
  
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  They are most suitable for outdoor application when the fabric has been solution dyed, i.e. the fiber is dyed in solution form prior to being extracted and manufactured into a yarn. Solution dyed fabrics give the best possible resistance against colour fading from direct UV exposure. The production of these yarns are generally environmentally friendly, being recyclable and resulting in minimal waste.
  
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  Excellent colourfastness and resistance to fading.
  
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  Fast drying.
  
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  A strong fiber with excellent abrasion resistance.
  
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  Resistant to stains, mildew, and chemicals making it easy to clean.
  

In summary, fabrics are only as good as the textile fibers they are constructed from. If you understand the inherent characteristics of the fibers within a fabric you can better understand the performance and potential application. Not discussed above are the combination and blending of fibers within fabrics, these should always be considered along with the technical specifications of a finished fabric.