O o d h e a d p u b L i s h I n g L i m I t e d

Key words: wool finishing, shrink resistance, flame retardancy,
mothproofing, stain repellence and stain release, enzyme application.
7.1
Introduction
Wool fabric finishing can be categorised into two main areas: chemical
finishing and mechanical finishing. The aim of finishing is to improve the
serviceability of wool fabrics and/or to produce the desired properties of
fabric in order to meet the specified requirements of consumers and end
uses.
There are three main objectives to be achieved during the finishing of
wool fabrics:
1.
Removal of contaminants or impurities from the fabrics by scouring.
2.
Improvement of the required properties of wool fabrics for improved
serviceability and durability. This includes handle, softness, fullness,
control of dimensional stability by decatising and relaxation shrinkage.
3.
Application of functional finishes for specific end uses including shrink
resistance, flame retardancy, waterproofing, insect resistance, stain
repellence and stain release.
Wool fabric has natural warmth and a hydrophobic character which means
it is an ideal choice for use in outerwear garments, as the fabric possesses
water-repellent properties. Wool finishing can improve the existing properties
and/or add the desired functional properties to wool fabrics to meet modern
consumer requirements and the needs of specific end uses. General finishing
processes for wool are scouring, fulling, antistatic treatments, relaxation
shrinkage, anti-felting and functional finishing such as flame retardancy,
mothproofing, stain repellence and stain release, among others. These properties
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Advances in wool technology
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are conferred in a sequence of processes carried out in a logical order. However,
the order in which they are applied may vary, depending on fabric type,
desired appearance or properties.
As it entered the 21st century, the textile and garment industry began to
focus more on comfort, environmental protection and functionality. A wide
range of wool finishing processes has being developed. The demand for
environmentally friendly finishing processes has greatly increased, for example
AOX (absorbable organic halide)-free shrink-resist finishing for machine
washable wool and PFOS (perfluorooctane sulfonate)-free stain-repellent
finishes. Advanced nanotechnology is being employed to produce wool with
multi-functional properties. Micro-encapsulation sensory perception technology
enables fragrance or active ingredients such as aloe vera or vitamin E skin
care as well as medical care products to be incorporated into garments.
These will be released from wool clothing or household textiles over a
period of time.
This chapter provides an overview of recent developments in wool finishing.
Wool fabric finishing is a very extensive topic, so this review will focus on
functional finishes such as shrink-resist, flame-retardant, insect-resist, stain-
repellent and stain-release finishing. In recent years, there has been considerable
interest in the use of enzymes to achieve a variety of finishing effects on
wool. Incorporation of enzymes into wool wet processes to improve wool
fabric softness, reduction of prickle and shrink resistance are briefly reviewed.