O o d h e a d p u b L i s h I n g L i m I t e d

3.4
Environmental claims
As ‘green becomes the new black’ consumers are more and more likely to be
assaulted with an even more bewildering array of environmental claims.
Some claims will be supported by legitimate, evidence-based arguments;
however, it is probable that many environmental claims will be based on
statements by overly enthusiastic marketers.
Consumer advocacy groups have long argued for truth in advertising and
ISO 14021 provides clear guidance on environmental claims that are able to
be made. In general, vague and non-specific claims should be avoided. This
includes terms such as; ‘environmentally friendly’, ‘green’ and ‘non-polluting’
which are too general in nature to be of any use to consumers. Claims must
be accurate, verifiable and in context. This information should be easily
accessible. The UK and Australian government agencies (and others) are
providing further interpretation and checklists for marketers, with warnings
of the penalties under law that might be applicable for deceptive environmental
claims (Defra, 2000; ACCC, 2008).
3.4.1
Type 1, Type 2 and Type 3 ecolabels and
greenwash
Modern consumers are beginning to understand that there is an environmental
impact associated with the manufacture of all products. As they become
more environmentally aware they are seeking evidence to distinguish valid
ecological claims from ‘greenwash’, defined by The Concise Oxford English
Dictionary as ‘Disinformation disseminated by an organisation so as to present
an environmentally responsible public image. Origin from green on the pattern
of whitewash’ (Mohr, 2005). Wool is widely recognised by consumers as a
natural and renewable fibre, but that does not automatically mean that specific
wool products are sustainable or environmentally friendly.
© 2009 Woodhead Publishing Limited

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Advances in wool technology
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In 2007/08, many of the major wool-producing countries initiated projects
to investigate the ‘environmental footprint’ of wool production and processing
by conducting life-cycle assessments (LCAs), not only as a defensive tool
but also as a base for identifying and rectifying problem areas. The carbon
footprint of commodities is the subject of a draft British Standard, PAS
2050, and this initiative is being supported by major retail chains. Many
commodities are viewing this development very seriously and it is anticipated
that carbon footprints of commodities will begin to have an impact on market
access (Mello, 2007).
Environmental claims on products may be made through the use of eco-
labels. The most common eco-labels are classified as Type I or Type II eco-
labels. Both are based on the ISO 14000 series of international standards.
Claims based on Type I eco-labels (as described by ISO 14024) are by far the
most credible. These labels are based on criteria independently established
across the life cycle of a product and certified or audited by an independent
third party. Type II claims are based on ISO 14021 and are essentially self-
declarations by manufacturers or retailers. Unfortunately Type II claims often
present difficulties in terms of verifiability and credibility, and this is the
province of greenwash.
Some research has shown that consumers often do not distinguish between
Type I and Type II claims, or between third-party verified and self-declared
claims. They often assume that all environmental claims have some kind of
official backing (OECD, 2001).
Type III labels are little used. They are voluntary programmes that provide
quantified environmental data of a product, under pre-set categories of
parameters. Unlike Type I labels, a Type III label makes no claim of
environmental superiority. That decision is left up to the consumer and user
of the label information.
3.4.2
What differentiates organic, biodynamic,
ecological, sustainable and ethical wools?