Knitting technology, Third Edition



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Reference
1.
goadby
, D. R., The Camber single jersey Louvnit machine,
Knit. Int.,
(Dec. 1978), 46–7.
Further information
anon
., Tuck loops in jacquard knitting,
Hos
.
Trade J.
, (April 1963), 123–8.
lancashire
, J. B., Uses of the tuck stitch,
Hos. Trade J.
, (June 1961), 158–61.
Fig. 9.12
Tucking on the latch.


10
Coloured stitch designs in weft knitting
Colour is one of the five ingredients of fashion, the other four being style, silhou-
ette, texture and pattern [1].
Ornamentation for design purposes may be introduced at the fibre, yarn, or
dyeing and finishing stage, as well as at the knitting stage. Apart from different
colours, it may take the form of sculptured or surface interest. In fibre form it may
include a variation of fibre diameter, length, cross-section, dye uptake, shrinkage, or
elastic properties. In yarn form it can include fancy twist and novelty yarns, as well
as the combined use of yarns produced by different spinning or texturing processes.
The dyeing process, which provides the possibility of differential and cross-dyeing
of fabrics composed of more than one type of fibre, may occur at any point in 
manufacturing from fibre to finished article [2].
The finishing process may also utilise heat or chemically-derived shaping. Finally,
printing and particularly transfer printing [3] can introduce colour designs onto
plain colour surfaces, whilst embroidery stitching may provide relief designs in one
or more colours (usually onto garment panels or socks).
The finishing process can completely transform the appearance of a relatively
uninteresting structure, either as an overall effect or on a selective basis.
The knitting of stitch designs always involves a loss of productivity compared
with the knitting of plain, non-patterned structures. Machine speeds are lower, less
feeds can generally be accommodated, efficiency is less, design changes are time-
consuming and dependent upon technique and machine type, and, in many cases,
more than one feeder course is required to knit each pattern row.
At the knitting stage, apart from stitches for surface interest and other functional
purposes, four techniques may, if required, be employed to produce designs in
coloured stitches. These are 
horizontal striping, intarsia
,
plating
, and 
individual
jacquard stitch selection
.



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