Knitting technology, Third Edition

28.8
Raschel mesh structures
Mesh structures may be used alone or as the ground for designs produced by pattern
bars (Chapter 27). The three main raschel lace gauges are: 28-gauge (E 14), which
is coarse gauge (Fig. 28.6) and is mainly used for dress-wear with the designs being
emphasised by heavy outline threads; 36-gauge (E 18) which is the standard gauge
(Fig. 28.7); and 48 gauge (E 24) which is fine gauge, provides better definition in
designs, and is also used for lace edgings, etc. (Fig. 28.8).
Three-course tulle
is the standard mesh for raschel lace, producing three courses
on each wale with the inlay reinforcement lapping in unison. When the pillar and
inlay lap in opposition, a square mesh known as 
cross tulle
or 
bridal veil net
is pro-
duced.
3/2 tulle
produces alternate rows of smaller mesh and its lapping covers three

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16T
16T
8T
4T
2T
1T
ECCENTRIC
IN THE
FORWARD
POSITION
ECCENTRIC
IN THE
BACKWARD
POSITION
THE SU UNIT
Fig. 28.5
The summary drive (SU) electronic patterning mechanism [Karl Mayer].

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346
Knitting technology
Fig. 28.6
28 gauge (E 14) pillar inlay using outline threads [Karl Mayer].
Fig. 28.7
36-gauge (E 18) raschel tulle lace (technical face).

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Multi guide bar machines and fabrics
347
Fig. 28.8
48-gauge (E 24) fine gauge raschel lace; the edge has been scalloped by cutting [Karl Mayer].

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348
Knitting technology
wales.
Five-course tulle
produces larger mesh and is more suitable for 28-gauge
fabrics.
Hexagonal pattern paper is more useful than point paper when plotting inlay
designs for lace. The staggered vertical column of hexagonals that represent the 0
height link position is then established. Each hexagonal in a horizontal row moving
away from the 0 link position will represent an increase of chain link height (in even
numbers) (Fig. 28.9, A).
Sometimes, more elaborate grounds are produced by varying the inlay move-
ments of partly-threaded bars or a jacquard-controlled guide bar whilst employing
a fully-threaded guide bar to make a ground pillar stitch.