Figure 32: DBAN initial screen
You will find a list of the disks being used in your system, in this case it’s an
ATA Disk (although used in a Virtual Machine, it will be fine for testing
purposes). On the bottom of the screen, you will find the keyboard shortcuts to
enable the different features (Figure 33).
Figure 33: keyboard shortcuts to navigate DBAN
Always follow this caption to move across the program. Moving upwards
and downwards, you can choose the partition to be formatted, then press the M
button to select a deletion method (one of the above algorithms). For our testing,
we will choose PRNG Stream selecting it and pressing Space.
The PRNG Stream provides the Pseudo Random Number Generator, an
external tool that only generates (pseudo)random numbers. Pressing the P key
you can choose between the two algorithms (each one will include a
description). The V key allows you to perform a verification and choose how to
run it: I recommend to leave it on Verify Last Pass so you can check the deletion
only once the operation is done. Verification Off will disable the verification,
while Verify All Passes will verify at the end of each passage (making the
process much longer). The R button allows you to specify the number of deletion
cycles. As we mentioned for the PRNG Stream method, in order to have a high
security deletion, we’ll proceed with 8 steps, as we will specify within the
program (Figure 34).
Figure 34: 8-step definition for PRNG Stream shredding
Now that you’re ready, go back to the program Home and click Space. Next
to your partition, you will see [wipe] (Figure 35).
Figure 35: disk wiping confirmation through DBAN
Now you’re ready to wipe your storage. Press F10 and allow the deletion
process to end.
File Shredding and SSD – Everything you need to now
If you arrived so far, I guess you need to have a constantly clean storage,
always ready to withstand any forensic searching. You must know that File
Shredding methods are effective for mechanical disks, while they may be
ineffective for SSDs.
The reason is that all the variables determining the success or the failure of a
File Shredding operation over a SDD are multiple: in mechanical disks, files are
seemingly deleted, but still keep the occupied space to avoid any slowdown in
the deletion process. When new data is created, mechanical disks rewrite the
sectors flagged as “deleted”. In SSDs, when files are deleted, the SSD will
choose whether to write the sector or not: such choice is taken by an internal
controller, which can be controlled through a module known as TRIM
(
https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/TRIM
), that flags blank sectors and let the
operating systems reuse them at once. TRIM is enabled by default in the latest
versions of all OSs and it should ensure the immediate rewriting of the newly
deleted sectors. SSD, then, have an internal logic that uses the TRIM to rewrite a
sector almost immediately, thus acting as a pseudo-shredder. Such consideration
also suggests that 1 deleting iteration (step) is enough for solid state disks.
However, the logic behind file shredding tools poorly fits into SSD architecture,
therefore the only real solution in this scope is the total and complete wipe of the
entire disk (not just a partition) using tools like DBAN and whatnot. Once again,
a single deleting step will suffice. As an alternate solution, you may encrypt the
file you wish to hide: doing this, the file is overwritten on itself. This way, the
old version should become illegible, still maintaining the accessibility to the file,
under a minor compromise. Naturally, you can apply this technique to the whole
disk (please see the disk encryption part).
7.9.1.3 Physical Drive Destruction
This category includes all the techniques you can use to completely or
partially destroy a physical storage device. We must state here that the
destruction of a hard disk – both 3.5” and 2.5” – is an extremely strenuous
operation. In mechanical hard disks, for example, you will take several minutes
to reach the magnetic media, and such operation ofter requires a huge amount of
effort and time. When it comes to the solid state drives (SSD), the operation may
be easier, however you should exactly know where to “drill” between the metal
place and the surface where all the data storing media reside, avoiding any
possible risk. As you can imagine, destroying a drive must be a quick task,
something you should be able to perform in seconds. All the following methods
relate to a Hard Disks and require you to know how to disassemble the magnetic
media (for mechanical units) and the flash memories, looking like many
microSDs soldered over the circuit (for SSDs).
Mechanical Destruction
Applies to: SD units, CDs/DVDs, Mechanical HDDs, SSDs
I cannot recommend using maces, tossing or whatever comes to your mind.
Without the proper tools, the disk may stay intact. Alternatively, you can use a
good nail gun and cripple the disk with holes: quite probably, nails will
irreversibly damage the internal parts; plugging the drive, however, will likely
cause a short circuit.
This operation can be useful for disassembling the internal parts of
mechanical disks and SSDs and disposing them elsewhere.
In the case of mechanical disks, you can use a robust tool like a smith hammer to
smash the disk to the point of bending it, causing its demagnetization.
For CDs/DVDs, just use some sanding paper; after a couple of rubs, the
surface mirror layer should go away like ash.
Demagnetization
Applies to: Mechanical HDDs, SSDs, USB memories, SD units, CDs/DVDs
The Degausser method – or demagnetization – is process that literally fries
electronics, sending an electromagnetic pulse (Emp) to the device. You can find
some professional-grade tools (Garner seems to be particularly reliable) or you
can build one at home (just search Create a Degausser or Degausser DIY).
We’ve also successfully verified this method with EPROM memories using a
home-made taser made with an anti-mosquito racket (you can find many
tutorials online), however we cannot recommend you to perform this task unless
you have the right electronics skills (you may burn the entire machine!); such
method, however, is inadvisable with mechanical disks. In the case of USB or
SD storage, you can try with a microwave oven, although this is an incineration
job rather than demagnetization.
Incineration
Applies to: Mechanical HDDs, SSDs, USB memories, SD units, CDs/DVDs
A word of warning before we proceed: besides the danger of setting anything
ablaze, such practice may be illegal in your country, because disks contain
metals that produce extremely dangerous fumes! Anyway, you need to reach
1115°C, or Curie’s Temperature, resulting in the loss of some ferromagnetic
properties of cobalt (found in some HDDs parts).
You can use:
•an industrial blast furnace, available from companies in the iron and steel
industry
•an oxy-acetylene torch, for about 100 $, reaching 3000-3100°C
•other torches, but you should verify their iron melting (1500°C) capability
•termite – you can make it at home, but it’s extremely dangerous, since it
reaches 2200°C
Sinking
Applies to: N/A
The mere “sinking” of a HDD in water won’t physically harm the device. Water
may damage the logical board (the set of controllers and components that are
soldered on the PCB), which is quite easy to replace, however.
The surface layer of mechanical HDDs magnetic disks is built with cobalt alloys
covering glass, aluminum and a ceramic substrate. In this case, water must reach
the aluminum in order to cause an actual oxidation damage to the disk. If the
disk is not powered and not writing, then, water alone cannot damage the inner
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