wanted to revolutionise everything, including their economy and culture:
Western democracy was “not very suitable” for them. He had said this in so
many speeches before; I was disappointed by the insubstantial conversation.
The Dutch had not left many trained Indonesian
administrators and
professionals; there were few institutions that could carry the country forward,
and three and half years of Japanese occupation had wrecked whatever
administration there was. Then the fighting between the Indonesian nationalists
and the Dutch, which recurred intermittently between 1945 and 1949, when the
Dutch finally conceded independence, had further damaged the economy and
weakened the infrastructure. Nationalisation
of foreign enterprises and a
nationalistic economic policy under Sukarno discouraged foreign trade and
investments and impoverished this vast, sprawling republic.
We stayed at the Hotel des Indes in Jakarta, the equivalent of Raffles Hotel
in Singapore. Alas, when it rained the roof leaked and as a matter of routine the
staff immediately produced basins and pails to catch the dripping water. When I
unthinkingly pulled the door of my bedroom to close it, not realising that it had
been latched to the wall, the plaster came away with the catch for the latch.
When I came back that afternoon, the damage had been repaired – with a piece
of paper that had been pasted over it and whitewashed.
When I asked Lee Khoon Choy, then parliamentary secretary at the ministry
of culture, to buy me a few Indonesian-English and English-Indonesian
dictionaries, they cost less than two dollars each. Many shops were nearly
stripped of dictionaries by members of my Singapore party who bought them for
friends learning Malay. The Indonesian rupiah was in a parlous state as a result
of inflation.
From Jakarta we drove in a motorcade with
motorcycle escorts to Bogor,
formerly the summer resort of the Dutch governor-general, and then on to
Bandung. From there we flew to Jogjakarta, an ancient capital in central Java, in
the president’s personal twin-propeller aircraft, a gift from the government of the
Soviet Union, bigger than the commercial DC-3 I had flown in. The clock above
the aisle had stopped, shaking my confidence in Russian technology and
Indonesian maintenance. If that could happen to
a clock on the presidential
plane, what about moving engine parts?
Before my departure I issued a joint statement with Prime Minister Djuanda
on trade and cultural matters. We had had several talks since he received me at
Jakarta airport. He was an excellent man – able, highly educated, realistic and
resigned to the difficulties of his country. We had spoken for hours, sometimes
in Bahasa Indonesia. During one exchange over dinner I remarked that Indonesia
was blessed with very fertile soil, a favourable climate and abundant resources.
He looked at me sadly and said, “God is for us, but we are against ourselves.” I
felt I could do business with a man of such honesty and sincerity. I left feeling
that we had become friends. I could speak Malay and was to him more like an
Indonesian
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